The inside of Macau’s St.Dominics Church

Historic Old City In Macau

The historic centre of Macau or the Old City is the area were the Portuguese first settled in 1557 when they made Macau a colony. The Old City was made a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2005, making it China’s 31^st heritage site. There are 22 buildings and eight squares in the old area and with cultural and historical significance.

With loads of churches, squares, lane ways and European architecture, walking through the Old City is one of the pleasures of visiting Macau. The best way to enjoy Macau’s Old City is to do a heritage walk through it slowly taking the history and feel. Listed below are the key Old City sites you should include when you visit the area.

Lou Kau’s Mansion – Built in 1889 this was the family home of Lou Wa Siou, also known as Lou Kau, a very successful merchant. Lou Kau had several very nice properties in the city and also commissioned the Lou Lim Loc Garden. This style of mansion is common through out most of China’s old town with many examples in Anhui province’s Hongcun Village. The mansion is small with only a few rooms so you’ll be in and out of there in 10 minutes at the most.

St.Dominic’s Church – This is Macau’s oldest church and was built in 1587 by Spanish Dominican priests. Considering Spaniards and Portuguese were at each others throats for much of the 15^th and 16^th centuries, this church has a very interesting history. The outside of the church is interesting and the inside is gorgeous.

Lou Kau’s Mansion in the Old City of Macau

Mount Fortress – This was a fortress built by the industrious Jesuits between 1617 and 1622 and it did a good job at prevented an invasion attempt by the horrible Dutch in 1622. The fortress was equipped with a barracks, cannons and an armoury with enough ammunition and supplies to endure a two year siege. The Macau Museum was built in the site in 1998 and covers two underground levels and the ground level. When you visit the fortress, you can see plenty of battlements and cannons and the great views of the surrounding city.

A-Ma Temple – This temple was built in 1488 well before the Portuguese came to Macau and is one of Macau’s oldest and most famous temples. The temple is primarily dedicated to the Matsu, the Chinese god of seafarers and fishermen. The actual temple is a complex consisting of the Gate Pavilion, the Memorial Arch, the Hall of Benevolence, the Hall of Guanyin and a Buddhist pavilion called Zhengjiao Chanlin. In true Chinese style the temple is a mixture of Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism with each of the pavilions is dedicated to gods other than Matsu.

Ruins of St Pauls

Lilau Square – This square was the centre of the budding colony when the Portuguese first came over and is built around a natural spring which was the colony’s main source of fresh water at the time. Lilau is actually Portuguese for mountain spring. The square and the streets leading off from it have a Mediterranean feel but there is not much to actually see there and it is mainly good place for a quick rest.

Mandarin’s House – This is a large compound with an area of 4000 square meters and over 60 rooms that was the home of the Zheng clan. The structures in the compound are mostly southern Chinese in influence with some obvious western influence. The compound was originally built in 1869 by Zheng Wenrui and expanded by his son Zheng Guanying. At the time of construction the compound had unobstructed views of the inner harbor and hills across the river making it Macau’s top residential real estate. Mandarin’s House is an excellent example of Chinese architecture (despite Portuguese influence) and one of the Old City’s best sites. Walking through the compound and admiring the contents such as antique furniture will give you an excellent insight to upper class Chinese life style of that era.

St.Lawrence’s Church – The original church was built by the Jesuits prior to 1560 and the current church was completed in 1846, making it one of Macau’s oldest churches. The building itself is a typical 18^th century neoclassical structure and layout / shape of the building is based on the shape of a Latin cross. St.Lawrence’s Church is similar to the more popular St.Dominics Church (see above) and St.Augustine’s Church but has (depends on your opinion) a larger and more attractive interior. This church is normally quiet so a great way to enjoy it is to go inside, grab a pew and relax enjoying the tranquillity, woodwork, stained glass windows and beautiful interior.

Senado Square in the Old City of Macau

St. Augustine's Square – The square is basically a large area of cobblestone pavement at the intersection of a number of streets that reflects Portuguese streetscapes. You’ll end up passing through the square as you visit the nearby sites such as St.Augustine’s Church and St. Joseph's Seminary and Church.

Old City Walls – Back in 1569 the Portuguese settlers carried out their customary habit of constructing a defensive wall around the early settlement. The wall was meant to defend against Chinese invaders, pirates and the marauding Dutch. History buffs will be pleased to know that it was made out of a mixture of clay, sand, rice straw, rocks and oyster shells. There is only around 12-15 meters of wall to see and it is very easy to miss. Not a very impressive site.

Dom Pedro V Theatre – This building is actually a theatre and being built in 1860, it is one of the first western style theatres built in China. It is no longer used as a theatre but is still an important part of the local community and is used for important public events, celebrations and announcements. The inside is nice with an open waiting room and a balcony level but the main attraction is the outside façade which is another neoclassical design with three six meter tall archways.

Mount Fortress in the Old City of Macau

Guia Fortress – This is a lighthouse, chapel and fort complex in the St.Lazarus Parish at Guia Hill, the highest point on the Macau peninsula. The lighthouse is 15 meters high and built in 1865 with the actual fort itself being built between 1622 and 1638. The Guia fortress together with Mount Fortress helped save Macau from the failed 1622 Dutch invasion. A cable car runs from the entrance of Flora Gardens (Macau’s largest public park) to the fortress but you are better of walking because the surrounding views of Macau are excellent.

Sam Kai Vui Kun (Kuan Tai Temple) – Sam Kai Vui Kun was built in 1750 and was initially a meeting place for Chinese merchants. The name Sam Kai Vui Kun literally means “community hall for three streets” and it was a flourishing commercial center until the Chinese Chamber of Commerce in Macau was opened in 1912. The temple was originally dedicated to the Guan Yu (Kuan Tai) the god of martial arts and wealth which is the connection between the temple and a place of commerce. The actual buildings are small and it follows the Jin Dynasty planning with a gate wit three halls on a north south access and halls on either side. You can see this kind of layout on temples throughout China.

Macau – Bigger than Vegas!

With over 33 casinos and an annual gaming revenue of over US$40 billion, Macau has eclipsed Las Vegas as the world’s gambling mecca. The reason for Macau’s rise to prominence as the world’s casino capital is due to Chinese gamblers. Chinese love to gamble and they take their gambling very seriously. Gambling though is illegal in mainland China and Hong Kong but has been legal in Macau since 1848. Sitting on the border of China and right next door to Hong Kong, Macau is ideally located to cater to China’s hordes of willing and cashed up gamblers.

Macau receives over 28 million tourists every year and 16 million of these tourist come from Mainland China with another 7 million coming from Hong Kong. With a population of half a million, Macau is dominated by gambling which is the biggest industry and makes up 70% of government revenue.

When you travel to Macau you can enjoy the world’s most extravagant and glitzy casinos, bus loads of gambling obsessed tourists, hotels, restaurants and public transport subsidised by these tourists. To help you enjoy your time travelling in Macau, this guide outlines the locations of Macau’s main casinos and gives information on Macau’s top casinos.

Casino Locations
Like Hong Kong, Macau is made of up two main parts. There is the Macau Peninsula which borders on the Chinese city Zhuhai and there is Macau Island that consists of Taipa, Cotai and Coloane. Most of Macau’s casinos are on the waterfront on the southern side of Macau Peninsula and the newly reclaimed Cotai strip on Macau Island.

The location of all of Macau’s major casinos is marked on the map below.

View Casinos in Macau in a larger map

Macau Casino Guide
The following guide to Macau’s best casinos in terms of flamboyance, atmosphere and size.

City of Dreams
Basics – This is an enormous hotel and casino complex with three hotels (Hard Rock Hotel, Crown Towers Hotel and the Grand Hyatt), 550 gaming tables, 1500 slot machines and over 20 restaurants and bars. The atmosphere in the complex and on the gaming floors is relaxed, informal and boisterous with people clearly having fun.

The House of Dancing Water – As well as gambling, hotels and eating, the City of Dreams also has  a production called the House of Dancing Water that cost US$260 million and took five years to develop. It is based very loosely on the story of a young fisherman who is transported to a fantasy world where an evil queen plots to separate two lovers. The story is basically an excuse for an outrageous extravaganza that involves a diving pool holding 14 million liters of water (5 olympic swimming pools) dirt bikes, acrobatics, martial arts and much more.

Located – Cotai Strip

The House of Dancing Water

The Venetian has 800 gaming tables and over 3400 slot machines, 3000 rooms in the hotel complex and over 23 restaurants. The Venetian was opened in 2007 and was attended by the Manchester United Football club. It even has an entertainment area called the Football Fanatic Zone and a Manchester United merchandise shop.

Located – Cotai Strip

Gondolas and artificial sky at The Venetian

Prostitution – The casino floor is in a round area at the center of the building with shady and slightly worn tables and prostitutes (mostly from Mainland China) patrol the area outside the casino floor. This is the only casino in Macau where you can see gambling and prostitution so blatantly hand in hand.

Located – Southern end of Macau Peninsula

Hotel and Casino Grand Lisboa
Basics – Built in 2006 the Grand Lisboa is right next to the Lisboa and is Lisboa’s modern replacement. The Grand Lisboa is new, glitzy, has over 240 gaming tables and 750 slot machines and is housed in Macau’s tallest building that includes 430 hotel rooms. Very impressive but sterile, lacking in atmosphere and does not have the character of its aged predecessor.

Located – Southern end of Macau Peninsula

Wynn Macau
Basics – Opened in 2006, the Wynn Macau was the first Las Vegas style resort to be opened in Asia. It has 212 gaming tables, over 370 slot machines, 600 hotel rooms, five restaurants, two bars.

Shows – The Wynn Macau has two shows that make it stand out. There is the “Golden Tree of Prosperity” in the atrium where a giant gold tree rises out of the floor, and there is the Dragon of Fortune where a gold leaf covered animated dragon emerges every hour in a cloud of fog. With extravagant displays and a full line up of designer labels such as Gucci and Prada, the Wynn Macau attracts high rollers.

Located – Southern end of Macau Peninsula

The Sands Macau
Basics – Built and opened in 2004, the Sands Macau was the first gaming complex opened in Macau that was owned and operated by an international company, leading the way for the newer and larger international casinos such as The Venetian. The Sands Macau has 85 gaming tables, over 130 slot machines, a 289 room hotel and a huge chandelier holding almost 6000 light globes. The layout of the casino is very minimalist and the gaming area is in one big room.

Located – Southern end of Macau Peninsula near the ferry port

MGM Macau
Basics – This is 600 room casino resort with 345 gaming tables and over 1000 slot machines built in 2007. Popular with foreign tourists because the minimum bets are low and it is normally busy with a relaxed pleasant atmosphere.

Located – Southern end of Macau Peninsula

The dark side of gambling – Children left in the lobby of the Grand Lisboa Casino

Time -One day is plenty to experience Macau's casinos and you can do a day trip from Hong Kong very easily by ferry

Nature of Gambling – Gambling is not meant be fun to Chinese who take it very seriously so don’t expect to see a lot of happy smiling faces on the gaming floors

Transport – There will be courtesy buses for all the major casinos running to both ferry terminals and the airport which are very convenient

The Macau Tower

Also known as the Macau Convention and Entertainment Center, the Macau Tower is one of Macau’s most outstanding and celebrated landmarks. Home to the best views in Macau, four extreme sports and several over priced restaurants, the Macau Tower is one of Macau’s top tourist sites.

Background & Details
The Tower – The Macau Tower was designed by New Zealand architect Gordon Moller, built in 2000 and opened to the public in 2001. With a height of 338 meters, the Macau Tower at the time of construction was the eight tallest free standing tower in Asia and the tenth tallest in the world.

Decks and Views – The main observation deck on the tower is enclosed and is on the 58^th floor and the outdoor observation deck is on the 61^st floor at a height of 223 meters. You can walk around the entire on the outdoor deck giving incredible views (on a good day) of the Pearl River Delta, Macau Peninsula, Taipa and Coloane Islands. On  clear day tower management say you can even see as far as Hong Kong but pollution normally makes that impossible.

The ticket cost for both indoor observation deck (58 floor) and outdoor deck (61 floor) is MOP120. The opening times are
10:00-21:00 Mon to Fri and 9:00-21:00 weekends and holidays

Extreme Tourism
The tower is a one stop shop for junkies with three hair raising and expensive activities to do high above the city. Just the thing you need to feel alive after blowing your fortune on the gaming tables.

The details for bookings and enquires are (853) 8988 8656 ajhackett@macautower.com.mo

Climinb the Macau Tower

Bungee Jump – This is the Guinness Book of Records world’s highest bungee jump where you are in free fall for 4-5 seconds and reach speeds of up to 200km/h. The jump is made from the 61^st floor at a height of 233 meters and you rebound at around 30 meters above the ground. The bungee cord is 50 meters long and stretches to almost 200 meters. Bungee jump purists say it is not real bungee jump because the rebound is controlled by guide cable system but they are just jealous. MOP$2,488 for the first jump and MOP$888 for the second jump.

Opening times are
Monday – Thursday    11:00am – 7:30pm
Friday  11:00am – 9:00pm
Saturday & Sunday    10:00am – 9:00pm

Sky Jump – This is basically where you are hooked into a parachute harness connected to a wire system and jump off the tower at the 61^st floor. There will be a pause just after you jump for photos and then you’ll be in controlled flight (fall) for around 20 seconds. Deceleration is controlled so you gently land at the bottom. MOP$1,888 for the first jump and MOP$888 for the second jump.

Opening times are
Monday – Thursday    11:00am – 7:30pm
Friday  11:00am – 9:00pm
Saturday & Sunday    10:00am – 9:00pm

Skywalk X – There is a 1.8 meter wide rim on the tower at the height of 233 meters that has no hand rails. You are hooked up to a safety harness and pulley that allows you to walk, slide or swing around the entire tower as well as sitting on the edge enjoying the view. Cost is MOP$688 and the opening hours are

Monday – Thursday    11:00am – 7:30pm
Friday  11:00am – 9:00pm
Saturday & Sunday    10:00am – 9:00pm

A leap of faith

360º Café (level 60) – This is Macau’s highest rotating restaurant with a multinational lunch and dinner buffet. MOP$238 for lunch and MOP$338 for dinner.

180º Lounge and Grill (level 59) – Beef, lamb and chicken grills; and a wide selection of wine, cocktails and beer.

Café on 4 (level 4) – An ordinary café with decent harbor views

Lua Azul – A Chinese restaurant based on Huaiyang cuisine. It has executive VIP rooms and is a great place to seen with plenty of snob value.

Singing Bean Coffee – Think of an over priced Starbucks with an extended menu and Mozart playing constantly.

Getting There
The Macau Tower is on the south western edge of the Macau Peninsula and an extremely visible land mark so very easy to find.
Taxis – You should pay no more than the minim flag charge of MOP$13 on the peninsula. The cost from Taipa, Cotai or Coloane may cost more.
Bus – 9A, 18, 21, 23 or 32

Ruins of St Pauls in Macau

If you are in Hong Kong on a China visa run and you have a day free, what do you do? See Macau. This was my situation last time I was in Hong Kong so I arranged to meet a Polish friend U at Macau’s ferry terminal at 10:00am for a day of fun visiting the sites in Macau.

Hong Kong to Macau by Ferry
The best way to get to Macau from Hong Kong is to take the TurboJet ferries that run 24 hours a day. The sailing time is 55 minutes, an economy ticket cost HK$151 and a super class ticket costs HK$291. You catch the ferry at Hong Kong Macau Ferry Terminal in Sheung Wan and get off at the Macau Ferry Terminal and Heliport on mainland Macau.

I took the MTR to Sheung Wan station and used the D exit which leads straight to the ferry terminal a few minutes walk from the ticket windows. The next available ferry with an economy seat did not leave for over 90 minutes and if I bought a super class ticket, I’d be leaving in 10 minutes. I could not make my friend U wait that long so forked out for a super expensive ticket.

The actual ferry ride was nice, great views, very comfortable seats AND a complimentary breakfast. Maybe there is more to travel than budget back packing!!!

Economy Class left Vs Super Class Right on the Hong Kong Macau Ferry

Hotel and Casino Lisboa – Built in 1970 the Casino Lisboa is one of Macau’s original and most famous casinos. Walking around the casino you get the feeling that it is old and has better days. The casino floor is in a round area at the center of the building with shady and slightly worn tables and prostitutes (mostly from Mainland China) patrol the area outside the casino floor. This is the only casino in Macau where you can see gambling and prostitution so blatantly hand in hand.

Hotel and Casino Lisboa

After visiting the two Lisboa’s, we got a little lost but eventually made our way by foot to the old area of Macau.

Victims of Gambling, Children left in the Lobby Grand Lisboa Casino Macau

Lou Kau’s Mansion – Built in 1889 this was the family home of Lou kau, a very successful merchant. This style of mansion is common through out most of China’s old town with many examples in Anhui province’s Hongcun Village. You’ll be in and out of there in 10 minutes at the most.

St.Dominic’s Church – This is Macau’s oldest church and was built in 1587 by Spanish Dominican priests. Considering Spaniards and Portuguese were at each others throats for much of the 15^th and 16^th centuries, this church has a very interesting history. The outside of the church is interesting and the inside is gorgeous.

St Dominics Church

The Inside of St Dominics Church

Ruins of St.Paul’s – This was originally the St.Paul’s College and Cathedral of St.Paul built by the Jesuits at the end of the 15^th century. It was destroyed by a fire during a typhoon in 1835 and is now Macau’s most famous tourist site. Only the façade is left standing now and it is an interesting place to visit even in the rain. You can also see bones of the Jesuits in the crypt ad the back of the site.

Mount Fortress – This was a fortress built by the industrious Jesuits between 1617 and 1622 and it did a good job at prevented an invasion attempt by the horrible Dutch in 1622. You can see plenty of battlements and cannons when you climb to the top and the views of the surrounding city are great.

By the time we finished enjoying the old area of Macau it was around 1pm so we jumped on a public bus and headed of for Macau Island. U heard that there was a casino called The Venetian, a must see Macau hot spot. The island also has a temporary ferry terminal with ferries back to both Hong Kong and Shenzhen.

Macau Island and Casino Cities at the Cotai Strip
The Venetian – This hotel and casino complex is enormous and feels like a miniature city when you are in there. To give you an idea of the size, it is the 6^th largest building in the world in terms of floor space and it is the world’s largest casino. It is so insanely large that there is a series of canals on the top floor used for gondola rides and they have painted the ceiling to look like a cloudy sky on a sunny day. An effect that is both impressive and creepy. The ground floor has art work on the ceiling very reminisce of the Sistine Chapel that adds to the formal feel of the hotel.

We were there for a couple of hours checking out the gambling floors, wandering through the upper floors that had corridors the size of streets and stopped for a late lunch. Considering the quality and price of the hotel, lunch was cheap. Most likely subsidised by the millions lost daily by gamblers.

The Painted Ceiling of The Venetian

Gondolas at The Venetian Hotel and fake sky inset

Back to Hong Kong
After that high stakes game we left the City of Dreams and caught their courtesy bus to Macau’s temporary ferry terminal. I was in luck and caught a ferry back to Hong Kong with an economy seat. U had to wait a little longer for her ferry back to Shenzhen.

Tips for Visitors to Macau’s casino’s and Historical Sites
Dress Code – There is basically no dress code and anything goes but you may want to dump the shorts, sandals and t-shirt to wear something a little more formal.
Timing – Macau has enough tourist spots and places of interest to keep you busy for at least 3 or 4 days BUT 1 day is plenty to see the highlights.
Don’t Gamble – Unless you have iron self control, don’t gamble. These places are designed to part you from your cash and if you start gambling you are likely to be broke before you know it.

Shorts, sandals, t-shirt and day pack, a little under dressed at Grand Lisboa

Horses, beer, food, excitment – welcome to Happy Valley Racecourse

A Night at Happy Valley Racecourse

Surrounded by apartment buildings and hills in the middle of the city on Hong Kong Island, Happy Valley Racecourse is a tribute to the local gambling addiction. If you are in Hong Kong with an evening free, visiting the racecourse is a great way to have fun, experience a fascinating side of Hong Kong and enjoy some world class horse racing.

Background
Happy Valley racecourse was built back in 1845 on the only suitable flat area on Hong Kong Island. The track was rebuilt in 1995 and is now a world class race track and an essential fixture of the international racing scene.

Hong Kong’s second racetrack is at Sha Tin which is in the New Territories on the mainland. The Sha Tin racecourse is decent but no where near as much fun to visit as the Happy Valley racecourse.

An Evening at the Races
Race nights are normally on Wednesday nights starting around 7:30pm and running to around 11pm. You can have a meal at one of the many restaurants in Central or Wanchai, catch a classic street tram to the race course, pay your HK$10 entry fee and prepare for an evening at the races.

Races run every 30 minutes, there is a beer garden with cheap beer right next to the track and there is also live entertainment. If you are in the mood for a flutter, the betting halls are right next to the beer garden. The public area is full of expats and fellow tourists so a good place to socialize. If you skipped dinner or are feeling peckish, there are plenty of food kiosks around the beer garden and a number of classy (expensive) public restaurants at the racecourse.

Where to Watch – Forget the members stands. The best place on the whole racecourse to watch the races is in the public area at the track fence in between the starting gate and the finishing post.

Surrounded by apartment buildings

Happy Valley Racecourse Race Caledar

Entry Prices
HK$10 to the public areas that include the public stands, betting hall, beer garden and public restaurants

HK$100 normally and HK$150 on a race day for a tourist badge/entry that will give you access to the members enclosure. You can get the tourist badge by showing your passport at the members badge office. For most people, the tourist badge is not worth it.

Getting There
Happy Valley racecourse is on the north shore of Hong Kong Island next to Wanchai and Causeway Bay.

Subway (MTR) – Catch the MTR to Causeway Bay and use exit A. The racecourse will then be a short walk to the south. Plenty of signs and you can follow the crowd so you can’t miss it.

Tram – Catch the Hong Kong tram runs along the north side of Hong Kong Island. There will be trams marked with “Happy Valley” that will take you next to the racecourse. Great views of the city and only cost HK$2.3

Buses & Minibuses – Hong Kong is teaming with buses and minibuses and these are the ones you can catch to the racecourse 1, 10, 8X, 117 and 19. Fares range from HK$3.40 to HK$9.30

the public area next to the beer garden

Even Police are not safe from them

Passengers of all nationalities and cultures can be obnoxious with a plan ticket in their hands but so many Chinese passengers outdo everyone else with their lack of patience, short tempers, complete absence of decorum and utter disdain for rules and etiquette, and disrespect of everyone out side their immediate circle.

This may sound racist but it is not. I have an immense respect for Chinese people and their culture and personally abhor racism. Like every culture though, Chinese have their strengths and weaknesses. Flying tends brings out their weaknesses.

Just How Bad are Chinese Passengers?
In Short, they can be incredibly bad. To give you an idea, some of the higher profile incidents that have recently received a lot of media attention are listed below.

Massive Temper Tantrum – On the 6 of February 2013 a deputy chairman of a state owned mining company in Yunnan and county level communist party official Yan Linkun went ballistic at the Kunming Changshui airport. He arrived with his wife and children at the airport with plenty of time but spent too long eating breakfast so he missed his first flight. He was switched to a later flight but again missed the last call. After he unsuccessfully tried smooth talking and then threatening his way onto the flight, he flipped and threw a massive tantrum.

His wife and he shouted at the airport staff and he then kicked the boarding gate desk, destroyed two boarding gate computers and tried twice to break the glasses doors leading to the plane with a sign board. Security staff were present but did not stop with which is understandable. He was temporary suspended, forced to apologize and given a slap on the wrist.

Seatbelts and Phones – 14 of February on a KLM flight from Beijing to Amsterdam six Chinese first class passengers were late for boarding and once seated refused to fasten seatbelts or stop using their mobile phones when plane was ready to take off. They then became abusive to the flight attendants who asked them to stop using their phones and fasten their seatbelts . The captain of the flight refused to take off until the passengers were taken away by airport security.

Beating Airport Employee – 20 February at Guangzhou International Airport a Melbourne bound China Southern flight was delayed and two Chinese passengers beat an airport employee to the ground.

Stealing Alcohol – 22 February on a Air France flight from Paris to Wuhan two drunk Chinese passengers stole between 7 and 16 bottles of wine from a drink cart. They became obnoxious when confronted with the theft and the pilot had to intervene. The two passengers also reportedly threatened a fellow Chinese passenger with death when she tried to dissuade them.

Aisle Toilet – Some time in February on a domestic flight a child defecated in the aisle of the plane then had their bottom wiped by one of their parents.

Passenger pics of Child defecating in the aisle

Pilot and Crew Assaulted and Restrained – In October 2012 a Jetstar flight from Melbourne to Beijing was diverted to Shanghai due to bad weather. The passengers were kept on the plane for a couple of hours with cabin crew keeping people calm and under control. After the passengers left the plane a group of Chinese passengers lynched the Captain and flight crew who where picking up their bags, assaulted the captain, forced captain and crew against a wall, physically restrained them and took their bags away. Airport officials and staff did nothing.

Bad Habits – As a general law passengers are meant to remain seated and leave their mobile phones turned off until the seat belt light goes off and they are given permission by cabin staff. People from all nationalities tend to bend this law by getting up, turning on phones etc etc once the plane stops or is slowly taxiing on the tarmac. Chinese passengers take this to an extreme by often making calls as soon as the wheels hit the ground and opening overhead lockers to grab luggage when the landing has barely finished.

…and the list goes on.

How to deal with the worst of Chinese passengers

The Airline Industry – Over the last 10 to 20 years the Chinese airline industry has gone through the largest period of growth seen by any airline industry since the Wright brothers took to the skies. This explosive growth has come at a price with areas such as staff training and passenger management being neglected in favour of infrastructure, flight routes and planes.

Consequently Chinese passengers are have longer waits on planes and boarding gates than their counterparts around the world and the communication they receive is minimal or non existent.

Peak Flying Season – Every year during the lunar New Year around January or February, the world’s largest annual migration takes place in China where two billion journeys are made during the period of two weeks. You can click here for information on travel during Chinese New Year.

During this time the countries capacity for air travel is stretched to the limit, people are under extreme time pressure and there are crowds like you would not believe.

Scarcity and Poverty – Prior to China’s recent economic develop that started in the 80’s and 90’s China endured decades of extreme poverty and scarcity. The most graphic example is the Great Leap Forward in 1958-1961 where approximately 30 million people or 5% of the people starved to death. This led to a culture wit dog eat dog tendencies where everyone had to look after themselves first at any cost.

Money and Power – Many of the Chinese who fly work for the government directly or indirectly and have very powerful positions in one of the world’s most corrupt systems. These people tend to be arrogant, short on patience, limited empathy, believe anything can be bought and are bullies.

Education and Awareness – China has a fairly introverted culture (in Chinese the name “China means the center country) that is quickly changing but many people have a limited awareness of the world outside the confines of their own society. Adapting to international norms and forms of behaviour can be difficult for these people. Many people also have a limited education or education focused on technical skills and deficient etiquette and general knowledge. To put it very crudely, many Chinese passengers are country bumpkins with money.

Expectations – Many of these obnoxious passengers are first time flyers who have unrealistically high expectations. They are familiar with basic service found on cheap trains and buses and expect superior service with the more expensive air travel.

Selfishness – Chinese tend to be incredibly helpful and caring of their inner circle of family, friends and guests but can be extremely selfish and neglectful of outsiders and public areas. You can see this in the way so many Chinese don’t queue, litter in public and drive like they are insane. When you give these people a plane ticket this behaviour of selfishness leads directly to horrible passengers who walk over each other to get their seats, find luggage space, use phones when and where they want and have very little interest in waiting.

What? No complimentary Champagne???

Train Travel – Not only do you avoid passenger temper tantrums and arrogance travelling by train, you also get to see much more of the country. Train travel also gives you the opportunity to meet more down to earth, genuine and friendly people than planes. This post gives details on the benefit of train travel in China

Patience – Every culture including your own has its strengths and weaknesses so if the locals want to be obnoxious while they fly, let them. Their poor behaviour is not going to hurt you and they are a part of the interesting and colourful experience you have travelling in China.

Feel free to add your own experiences (good and bad) of Chinese passengers

Making travel and life in China easier

Listed below are the recommended top 10 applications for travellers and expats in China. All of these applications are free and available on both Apple’s iPhones and iPads and on Android phones and tablets.

Getting Connected
3G Networks – If you have just arrived in China, one of the first things you need to do is get connected with a Chinese SIM card. 4G networks are available in some of China’s eastern cities with blistering download speeds that can deliver a 10 meg file in two seconds. These networks are limited though and restricted to commercial use so stick to 3G networks.

China Unicom (Zhong Guo Lian Tong 中国联通) – The best place to get a SIM card is from China Unicom and they have a number of prepaid SIM cards ideal for travellers and good contracts for expats. Be warned though that with the prepaid cards, when your credit runs out, you can’t receive calls or messages.

3G Solutions has an excellent reputation for delivering prepaid 3G sim cards. You can buy your 3G SIM card from them online and have it delivered to your hotel in China or to your home address before you start your holiday.

Locked Phones – If your iPhone is locked and cannot be used with Chinese service companies, you will need to jailbreak it and unlock it.  You can easily jailbreak your iPhone in 6 or 7 steps. If you are not keen on doing your own jailbreaking, go to any electronics/computer/mobile phone market and pay 40-50RMB or a bit more to have it jailbroken professionally.

Recommended Applications
1 – China Air Pollution Index – Most of China’s major cities have extremely bad air pollution so this application is extremely useful. It provides up to date stats for air pollution in 120 Chinese cities.  This application can use data from Chinese government sources (questionable) or from the US embassy and consulates. Once you have this application you’ll know why you having breathing problems, suffering from asthma for the first time and coughing up grey muck. This app will indicate when the pollution is particularly bad so you know when not to go out or when to wear a mask.

iPhone App Download Link

Android App Download Link (Beijing only)

Android App Download Link (120 Cities)
 

2 – XE Currency Exchange – When you first arrive in China, getting used to a different currency can be difficult and expensive. This application can quickly convert RMB and any other currency into your home currency. This app is also useful when you meet tourists from different countries who talk in a confusing mix of Euros, pound, yen, Aussie dollar and more.  A handy function is this application stores exchange rates so you can still do conversions even when not connected.

iPhone and Android App Download Link

3 – QQ – QQ is a live chat and messenger system like ICQ, MSN Messenger, Yahoo messenger and used by EVERY ONE. In China everyone has a name, email address, telephone number and QQ number. If you want to interact with locals digitally, you need a QQ account and this application. You can easily swap between using QQ on your PC/laptop to QQ on your iPhone/iPad or android.

iPhone App Downlad Link

Android App Download Link (only in Chinese)

4 – Pleco – This is THE best Chinese dictionary and translator application and a must have for anyone with less than perfect Chinese. It is great for learning Chinese, holding conversations with locals and translating the most difficult and obscure Chinese (and English) phrases. The basic version is free and there are a number of upgrades you can pay for such as an optical character recognizer.

The Pleco Website

iPhone App Download Link

Android App Download Link

The Pleco App in action

5 – Dongdong Trip – This is an amazing application for booking hotels and flights AND looking up train schedules. Train stations are full of locals using this application to check timetables as they queue to buy their train tickets. It is extremely helpful for planning how to get from one city to the next by train. Nothing like being able to plan your trip while on the road.

iPhone App Download Link

Android App Download Link (have to pay)

6 – WeChat – Also called WeXin (微信) in Chinese, this application allows you to send voice messages, images and other stuff to your friends and contacts for free. Like facebook you can share photos to your WeChat friends from your profile and update your status for all to see. It also has the Find People Near Me function which is a great way to stalk meet people. Very popular with the one night stand crowd.

iPhone App Download Link

Android App Download Link

7 – Google Maps – If you don't have this app already, download now. Getting hopelessly lost during your travel in China can now be a thing of the past with this life saving application. Google maps have received a lot of bad publicity but don’t worry. In China this application uses maps from a Chinese company called AutoNavi that are reliable and high quality.

iPhone App Download Link

Android App Download Link

8 – China Daily – This is the official English language Chinese newspaper. It is full of interesting, censored and pro party articles and stories that can provide a fascinating insight to the lives of locals. Also interesting to see what international news Chinese media considers news worthy. Plenty of pictures and a decent sports section but not much in the way of cartoons.

iPhone App Download link

Android App Download link

9 – Taobao – Taobao is an online marketplace like Ebay only bigger and better and this application plugs you right into Taobao. You can buy anything and everything on Taobao and it is especially ideal for items that are normally difficult to buy in China such as good cheese, genuine coffee, foreign cooking ingredients and medicine.

Even when you are buying goods commonly available in China, Taobao is good to use because the prices are normally the lowest and your order is delivered to your door with no fuss or bother. Not a very useful application for travellers in China but a godsend for expats.

This application is easy to use and allows you to choose your goodies, use online payment and complete your order with just a few finger swipes. Like any online marketplace, you do need to be careful but there are a number of very effective buyer protection systems in place on Taobao and you can choose to buy from sellers who have high reputation scores.

iPhoneApp Download Link

Android App Download Link

10 – Explore Metro Guide – This application is a fantastic guide for the subways that make travel in Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Hong Kong so cheap and easy. These subways can be a nightmare to navigate so this application can save you a lot of time and stress. It has user friendly maps of all the subways, station profiles, can plan your routes, give travel times and costs. It even has maps of the streets around the subway stations so you don’t get lost finding or leaving the subway.

iPhone and Android Download Link for Explore Metro Guide

This list is far from complete so if you have any iPhone or Android apps that you find useful for travel or living in China, please share them here.

Tiachi in Smog NOT Fog

How Bad is the Air Pollution in Beijing and China?
Extremely bad! On a summer’s day with clear blue skies and excellent visibility the pollution levels in Beijing are way above the standards set by the World Health Organization. In winter when coaled fired heating is used and there is no wind or rain to remove the pollution, the levels of pollution measured by the US embassy (the most reliable source) is off the charts and at least 30 to 45 times the recommended safety levels. What is even scarier is Beijing is not the most polluted city in China.  It is not even in the top ten of the most polluted cities in China.

Linfen (large city in Shanxi Province), Lanzhou (capital of Gansu province) and Urumqi (capital of Xinjiang) are China’s worst cities for air pollution and among the top 10 of the world’s worst cities for air pollution. So if you think Beijing is bad, you aint seen nothing.

Click to enlarge pollution map

An Introduction to China’s Air Pollution
With air pollution, the smaller an air pollution particle is, is, the more dangerous it is so to measure air pollution properly, you have to measure these small particles. The best method of measuring air pollution is he PM 2.5 index.

PM 2.5 –This is an index that measures particles that are 2.5 microns or less in diameter. These particles are dangerous because they are small enough to penetrate your lungs and enter your blood stream. In the US anything over 100 is unhealthy, over 300 is hazardous and the index stops at 500.

The U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention reported last year that the average particulate matter reading from 16 airport smokers' lounges was 166.6. Normal daily levels in Beijing range up to 300 or 400. On really bad days in Beijing that are frequent in winter, the daily levels will exceed 500.  American cities rarely record levels higher than 300 and that is only during forest fires.

Amazing and scary to think that walking down the street in Beijing is normally worse that sitting in a confined smokers lounge.

US Embassy Pollution Twitter Feed

Measuring Air Pollution in Beijing
The most reliable source of air pollution measurements in Beijing is the US embassy which measures PM 2.5. You can see hourly PM 2.5 readings of Beijing on the US embassy’s pollution twitter feed here

US Embassy Twitter Feed for Pollution in Beijing

In 2010 the Chinese government asked the US embassy to stop publishing the readings of their PM 2.5 monitor. Naturally the embassy refused.

Health effects
Ok so the pollution levels in Beijing and much of China are extreme but what does this mean for health? The heath effects are extreme and the key effects have been listed below.

Lung Cancer – According to the Beijing Institute for Cancer, lung cancer is the leading cause of death in China and air pollution is the number one cause of lung cancer. The cases of lung cancer in Beijing increased by 56% from 2000 to 2009.

Respiratory Disease – 15% of deaths in China are related to or caused directly by respiratory disease.

Births – Increased number of premature births and low weight babies

Lung Function – Depressed lung functions in healthy people

Hacking Coughs – In Beijing and Shanghai hacking coughs are common

Cardiovascular Disease – Air pollution can trigger heart attacks and heart problems and is responsible for increased blood pressure and reduced cell counts.

Birth Defects – In towns like Gaojiagao in Shanxi Province air pollution from coal has been linked to birth defects such as extra fingers and toes, cleft pallets, mental retardation and congenital heart disease.

To think over 20 million people live in these conditions

656,000 Premature Deaths – The World Health Organization estimated that in 2007 656,000 Chinese were dying prematurely each year from ailments caused by indoor and outdoor air pollution. That is 15% of the population of Melbourne Australia dying each year.

350,000 -400,000 Deaths – The World Bank included in a 2007 report that 350,000 to 400,000 deaths were related to out door pollution in China. These figures were later removed from the report due to government pressure.

300,000 Deaths Annually – According to statistics from the Chinese government 300,000 people die each year from out door pollution. Being a government statistic, this number is very likely to be understated.

Low Pollution and High Pollution

Airports – With visibility on runways often restricted to just several hundred meters, international and domestic flights are often cancelled on a bad day.

Acid Rain – China is the world’s largest produce of sulfur dioxide which causes acid rain. Acid rain falls on up to a third of mainland China and causes damage equivalent to 12 percent of China’s GNP which includes reduced crop yields.

Water Supplies – Much of the toxic muck in the air eventually enters China’s lakes rivers and underground water supplies which adds to ground pollution from sources such as factories and sewage. Beijing’s residents aren’t keen on tap water and bottled water sales have soared.

Lost Production – An indirect result of the health effects of air pollution is lost productivity when workers are sick on the job, take time off or are dead.

Medical Care – Literally billions of dollars worth of medical resources such as hospital beds and medicine are used to treat people sick from air pollution.

Causes of Air Pollution in Beijing and China
The phenomenal economic growth and development China has experienced in the last 30 years has come at a cost. That costs includes a number of different forms of pollution. The two main causes of air pollution are directly related to China’s development and are listed below.

With and without pollution

Cars – There was 3.5 million cars registered in Beijing in 2008 and this number increased to 5 million in 2011. A large number of these cars run on low grade fuel which makes the pollution they produce particularly bad.

Dust – Sand storms from the Gobi desert in central China often sweep tons of dust into Beiing’s atmosphere between March and May. Pollution from these sand storms can be so that that flights are diverted and cancelled. Dust from construction sites also contributes to Beijing’s air pollution.

The Government’s Response To Air Pollution
With a problem that is causing so much harm in many different ways, you’d expect a strong response from the government. If so, you’d be disappointed. These are the main responses so far.

Pollution at Tiananmen Square

Improved Measurements – The Beijing municipal government used an air pollution index based on particles called PM10 which are larger than the PM2.5 particles and less dangerous. Starting on the 1^st January 2013 they switched to a new index based on the concentration of PM 2.5

Recent Actions – In January 2013 when air pollution was extreme, the Beijing government suspended services of 30% of official vehicles and shut down 103 heavily polluting businesses for several days.

Vehicle Controls – The Beijing government announced that it will remove 180,000 older vehicles from the rods and control excess growth in new car sales. This is a joke considering the current car numbers and the current lack of controls on car ownership.

The Future – The government’s top priority is stability and that means an economy that creates and maintains jobs and increases wages comes first. Reducing pollution would increase energy costs, reduce manufacturing output, lower tax income and have other short term negative effects on the economy. So don’t expect the government to make changes to significantly improve air pollution in the near future.

The Peoples Response to Air Pollution
Most Chinese living in Beijing and the other heavily polluted cities take the pollution in their stride though recently there has been a lot of complaints and protests. The more common ways people have of dealing with air pollution are

Masks – These range from cloth masks with weir and crazy designs that are basically useless and extremely common to mask with filters.

Air Pollution Domes – A recent trend is the use of large domes out doors. For example the International School of Beijing uses a dome for outdoor sports. When the PM 2.5 readings outside was 650, the reading in the dome was 25. These domes cost millions.

More than a fashion accessory

Immigration – Many people who can afford to leave China and immigrate to countries such as Canada and Australia that have a reputation for clean healthy environments.

Air Purifiers – Many families use air purifiers for their homes that range in price from small $50 models to the larger models that can cost up to and over $6000. Ironically these purifiers use electricity with further exacerbates the air pollution situation.

Air Pollution and Travel In China
What does all this bad news on air pollution mean for you as a tourist? If you are an asthmatic or have respiratory problems, you will need to time your travels to avoid cities like Beijing in winter when the pollution is the worst. It will also mean that you should limit the time you spend in the big (and polluted) cities like Beijing and Shanghai.

Timing – Even without pollution winter is not a very good time to travel in China. The south is cold and the north is freezing with temperatures below -15C as the norm. You can have a much better time travelling in spring and autumn and even summer if you avoid the south.

Avoid Cities – Some of the best tourism sites and travel experiences are outside the cities so for most people there is no need to spend a lot of time in the polluted cities. For example you have the islands of Hong Kong, the mountains of Changbaishan, the highlands of Yunnan Province and the magnificence of Tibet if you can get in. There are also many beautiful coastal cities with minimal pollution that have loads of cultural appeal you can enjoy such as Xiamen, Qingdao, Zhuhai and Dalian.

The Potala Palace

Resting on the world’s highest and largest plateau with an average height over 4000 meters, Tibet is aptly named the Roof of World. Home to the 1300 year old Potala Palace, incredible mountain scenery, over 1700 Buddhist monasteries and a rich, vibrant and fascinating culture, travel in Tibet is an unforgettable experience.

The problem with travelling in Tibet is the Chinese government has severely restricted travel for foreigners in Tibet and there are many regulations and laws that must be complied with. For example even though you have a visa for travel in China, you cannot enterTibet. This post will outline the travel restrictions for Tibet and explain how you can legally travel in Tibet and have a great time.

About Tibet
The Areas of Tibet – Tibet is divided into three separate areas, western Tibet, central Tibet and eastern Tibet. Western and central Tibet are grouped together and called the Tibet Autonomous Region and eastern Tibet is mostly in the Sichuan and Qinghai provinces. Travel in eastern Tibet is basically unrestricted but travel in the Tibet Autonomous Region is restricted. When Tibet is used in this post, the meaning is the Tibet Autonomous Region.

Basic History – Tibet was unified early in the 6th century under Tibetan rule and the Kingdom of Tibet continued to the mid 9th century when civil unrest and one too many civil wars fragmented it. Tibet was then controlled by warlords and various tribes with no central rule until the Yuan Dynasty when the Mongol Empire took over. Tibet was then under Chinese rule with varying degrees of freedom and autonomy and sporadic unrest until the collapse of the Qing Dynasty in 1912. From 1912 to the end of the Chinese civil war in 1949, Tibet was under self rule. From 1950 till now Tibet has been under Chinese control with varying degrees of self regulation.

Tibet Autonomous Region

-Tibet Travel Permit (TTP) – Foreigners are not allowed to enter and travel in Tibet without a Tibet Travel Permit (TTP). Officials check all flights or trains and border crossings to Tibet to make sure foreigners are carrying valid Tibet Travel Permits.

-Travel Route – Once in Tibet, foreigners must follow the travel route outlined in their Tibet Travel Permit.

-Travel Guide – While in Tibet, foreigners must be accompanied by a local certified travel guide

-Public Transport – Foreigners are not allowed to use public transport in Tibet outside Lhasa.

-Same Nationality – Starting in May 2012 a new policy requires that you need to be in a group of at least 4-5 people of the same nationality to be granted a Tibet Travel Permit. This policy is subject to change so be careful and check for updates if you are planning to travel to Tibet.

-Restricted Nationalities – If you hold a passport from the following countries, you will not be issued a Tibet Travel Permit, Austria, Korea, Philippines, United Kingdom. This policy is also subject to change at the whim of the central government. If you hold one of these passports, I suggest you travel in eastern Tibet which is a very beautiful area and has a flourishing (subject to restrictions) Tibetan culture.

-Diplomats, Journalists and Government Officials -  People from these groups will not be issued Tibet Travel Permits and must arrange travel in Tibet through the Foreign Affairs Office of the Tibet Government

-Restricted Areas – These areas inside Tibet are restricted unless you have an Alien Travel Permit from the PSB to enter: Tsedang, Shigatse, Gyangtse, Ngari Region, Nyingchi Region and the Chamdo Region. To enter other areas such as Everest Base Camp you will also need additional permits.

Temporary Restrictions – The Chinese government will regularly close Tibet to foreigners during politically sensitive periods such as anniversaries, riots and large scale protest. During this time no Tibet Travel Permits will be issued and foreigners will not be allowed to enter Tibet. The most sensitive period is around the 10 to 14^th of March which is the anniversary of the 1959 Tibetan uprising. Tibet has been closed every March for the last 5 years and is likely to continue to be closed every March. These closures are based on the government’s assessment of Tibetan politics and security. Once Tibet is closed there are no official opening dates given.This means planning ravel to Tibet in March or April is very difficult and the only way to know when closures are over is when the tourism bureau starts issuing Tibet Travel Permits again.

These restrictions may seem extreme and unreasonable and in some ways they are but don’t worry. If you have a Tibet Travel Permit and follow the rules, you can have an incredible and rewarding travel experience in Tibet.

A Tibet Travel Permit - Compliments of Tibet China Travel Service

Chinese Visa – When you apply for your Chinese visa, don’t mention that you plan on travelling to Tibet. This could raise eyebrows and have your visa application rejected for any number of reasons. All visa types (L, F, X and Z) are ok but tourist or L visas are the easiest and cheapest to get. This post how to get Chinese visas in Hong Kong and may be useful reading to you. How to Apply for Chinese Visas in Hong Kong

Registered Travel Agents – Tibet Travel Permits are only issued by registered travel agents so once you are in China and ready to go to Tibet, contact a travel agent that deals with travel to Tibet. Listed below are the details of well regarded travel agencies.

Snow Lion – http://snowliontours.com/index.php/tibet
Tibet Highland Tours – http://www.tibethighlandtours.com/
Travel Wild Tibet – http://www.travelwildtibet.com/
Easy Tour China – http://www.easytourchina.com/tour-c291-tibet-tours
WindHorse Tibet – http://www.windhorsetibet.com/

A quick google search will show plenty more travel agents. Most travel agencies are legitimate and will provide a good service but there are some that will over charge you, require extra fees (bribes) and waste your time. Try to use a recommended travel agent or exchange a few emails and phone calls with them to test their professionalism.

The central government can close Tibet to foreigners at any time so check the travel agency’s cancellation policy. You will need a guide once in Tibet and a driver for travel outside Lhasa so try to arrange a guide and driver through your agency. You do not need to be with your guide 24 hours a day and you can negotiate time for wandering around and shopping. Just don’t go to any of the off limits or restricted areas or your guide, your agency and yourself may end up in trouble.

Tibet Travel Permit Application – When you make your application for the Tibet Travel Permit, you will need to provide your travel agency with the following in your application

-Personal details such as full name, nationality, gender and occupation
-Copies of your passport
-Copies of your Chinese visa
-a rough outline of your planned travel in Tibet

After Your Application – All Tibet Travel Permits are issued by the Tibet Tourism Bureau. Your travel agency will send your application off to the Tibet Tourism Bureau. They will then take a day or two issue your permit and then send it back to your travel agency. To be safe, give yourself a week to get your permit.

The Tibet Travel Permit Itself – The permit itself does not have an expiry date and it lapses when your visa expires, is changed or is renewed.

The cost of a Tibet Travel Permit – The price of your Tibet Travel Permit depends on where you will be travelling to Tibet from and the form of transportation you are using. The prices listed below have probably changed and should only be used as reference to give you an idea.

Travelling to Tibet by Air
Beijing – 400rmb
Xian – 500rmb
Chengdu – 700rmb
Zhongdian – 1040rmb

Travelling to Tibet by Bus or Car
Zhongdian – 1350rmb
Chengdu – 1200rmb
Golmund – 1100rmb

By Train
Beijing to Lhasa – 700rmb
Golmund to Lhasa – 400rmn
Xian to Lhasa – 600rmb
Guangzhou to Lhasa – 600rmb
Shanghai to Lhasa – 700rmb

Train Travel to Tibet

Train –  If you are travelling to Tibet from Beijing, Shanghai or Guangzhou, have enough time and plenty to read, train travel is recommended. The trip to Lhasa will take a long time (49 hours from Shanghai, 44 hours from Beijing), there are no showers on the train, no private toilets and no private rooms. The journey from the east coast will pass through the flatlands, deserts then mountains and is incredible and will be a very rewarding part of your trip to Tibet. How often to you take a train to the top of the world?! The actual train line was only completed in 2006, includes the Tanggula Pass with an altitude of 5072 meters and is an engineering marvel.

Plane – Major cities such as Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Chengdu, Xian and Chongqing all have direct flights to Lhasa. Chengdu also has direct flights, normally at least 8 a day. Tibet currently has five civilian airports and the sixth airport, the Nagqu airport, is scheduled for completion in two years. With an altitude of 4436 meters, the Nagqu airport will be the world’s highest airport. Not recommended for the faint hearted.

The Great Wall at Jiayuguan near Yumenguan

Stretching from one end of China to the other with a total length of over 21,000 kilometers and a history of over 2,500 years, the Great Wall of China is an incredible tourist attraction. For people who like the outdoors and enjoy hiking, walking the great all is a very enjoyable and rewarding way of experiencing the great wall and life in China.

If you are passionate about the great wall, have a lot of spare time, are an experienced hiker and are extremely determined and/or a little crazy, you can hike from one end of the wall to the other or thru-hiking the great wall. Outlined below are some key points for thru-hiking the Great Wall of China.

A Quick Introduction to the Great Wall of China
The Great Wall of China is not just one wall, it is a vast network of different walls, fortifications, earthworks and towers sprawled across northern China. The wall was built piecemeal by different dynasties and the style of the wall and the material it is built from vary enormously. The largest section of the wall is the Ming Dynasty Wall that had an estimated length of 6,400 kilomters. If you thru-hike the wall, you should thru-hike the Ming Dynasty wall.

The remains of the Great Wall in the desert of Gansu Province

Eastern End – The eastern end of the Great Wall of China is on Tiger Mountain in Dadong City on the border of North Korea in Liaoning Province.

Direction – Most great wall thru-walkers start in the Yumenguan and follow the wall east. This is considered the better route because the land is flat in the west and less demanding than the mountainous terrain in the east. If you start in Yumenguan and make it to the mountains, you’ll be in a much better condition for the difficult terrain than if you begin in the mountains around Beijing or Dadong City.

Terrain – The terrain ranges from deserts in the west of China where sand storms are a common hazard to mountains in Shaanxi in the center of China and rugged hills to the east of China in Hebei and Liaoning.

The Wall – The condition of the wall varies from non existent in Shaanxi and piles of crumbling mud in the west to pristine in Hubei. Shaanxi Province has the least amount of standing and tangible wall and Liaoning province where the presence of the wall is a rarity is not much better. Much of the wall in Gansu is isolated towers, many of them are not much better than mounds of mud.

The western section of the wall is mainly made out of packed sand stone, mud and earth and the eastern section is made out of stone bricks. You would see the first part of the stone wall in Shanxi Province after around 1,500 kilometers and the wall does not emerge in its full glory until 2,500 kilomters into the walk.

The remains of the great wall on the Shanxi Hubei border

Robert Loken is regarded as the first person to thru-hike the full length of the great wall and he took 601 days and covered 4,500 kilometers. Most people barely make it half way and many who do thru-hike the full length do so in sections with breaks in between. The maximum number of kilometres you’d be able to hike in one day mainly depends on the terrain and varies from just a few kilometres to around 40 kilometers at the most on a good day.

When to Walk the Great Wall of China
Temperature can range from 40C in Gansu’s desert to -30C in Shanxi near the border of Inner Mongolia and in Liaoning. If you walk the wall at the wrong time, these extreme temperatures can be deadly. Ideally you would avoid walking the great wall in the middle of summer (July/August) or in the middle of winter (November-February).

For the truly committed, thru-walking the wall during these times cannot be avoided so being prepared and having the correct equipment is critical.

Robert Loken - First recognised Great Wall thru-walker

Backpack – Choose a very light model and aim for a carrying capacity of around 72 liters and up to 20 kilograms.  The walk will be very punishing so the pack will also need to be durable.

GPS – During much of the walk the great wall will not be visible so a GPS is essential. It needs to be small and compact with standard replaceable batteries that you can buy in small country towns.

Maps – You need two sets. The first set is digital maps for your GPS with your planned trail and coordinates marked. The second is provincial paper maps with Chinese names and locations such as roads.

Shoes – Also critical and bad shoes have been the downfall of many great wall thru-walkers. Ideally you would break them in and make sure they are suitable before you start your hike. The first half of the walk will be mostly flat so walking boots without heavy ankle support are best.

Sleeping Bag – You’ll probably end up sleeping in sub zero conditions so you need a very good sleeping bag. A light weight three season down bag is good choice.

Tent – You need a tent to provide shelter during snow storms, sand storms and from the heat in the desert in the middle of the day. A one man tent would be very crowded even for a solo walker so two man is better.

Water Filters & Purifiers – Don’t take them, you don’t need them. You’ll rarely be far from some a small village or town shop where you can resupply with bottles of water.

Supplies – Normally two days of water and food such as noodles and nuts is plenty. Adjust your load depending on how isolated the wall is in that area and in some parts of the desert you’ll want to carry up to 10 liters on the longer stretches.

Trekking Poles – Every successful great wall walker used them so good to have.

Miscellaneous – You’ll also need a lot of smaller items such as sunglasses, lip balm, sunscreen, gloves, first aid kit, head lamp, Chinese sim card……

Only a very small part of the wall looks like this - fully restored

Blisters & Sore Feet – This problem normally occurs in the first few weeks of the walk as your feet adapt to sudden intense use. To minimise this problem hike regularly before you start the walk, have good shoes, take the first few weeks easy and take a few days off when necessary.

Visa Renewal – Most people enter China on a tourist visa that is valid for 3 to 6 months, often have conditions and must be renewed. Sometimes you may be able to renew your visa in China at a local police station. Other times you may need to leave China and go to Hong Kong. So when you plan your great wall thru-walk, take into account you will need to interrupt the walk for visa runs.

Extreme Temperatures – As you know, temperatures along the walk can range from -30C to 40C which can be deadly. Be prepared, have the right equipment and when necessary take a break from walk when the temperatures are too extreme.

Language – Most of the people you meet will be country people, friendly, hospitable but very unlikely to speak English. Try to learn enough Chinese to find a hotel, ask for help, get directions and order meals.

Warning
This post is just an introduction to thru-hiking the Great of China and you’ll need a LOT MORE information if you plan on doing this thru-hike. Some of the points you would need to research in advance are visas, maps, routes and equipment. Thru-hiking the great wall is only recommended for experienced hikers because if you are not prepared and don’t know what you are doing, you are likely to have a horrible time and end up in a lot of trouble. Also keep in mind that even just walking  the great wall for a week or so can be extremely rewarding and enjoyable.

One last point to keep in mind is respect and preservation of the great wall. The great wall is a priceless and in many ways fragile structure so when walking and sleeping on it, do no harm. There is not that much knowledge on the more isolated and “lost” parts of the wall so if you do thru-hike the wall, your observations, photos and records can contribute to the growing knowledge of the last remaining ancient wonder of the world.