The Jiankou Tower just west of Sharp North Tower (SNT)

Normally when you visit the Great Wall of China, you are seeing just one section of the wall such as Badaling or Mutianyu. The walk along that section will take a few hours and you’ll have a great time and an excellent experience.  Another way to visit the wall is to hike from one section of the wall to another.

This will give you more time on the wall, allow you to see the wall in different states, more exercise and a much better experience.  Two of the better great wall hikes near Beijing are from Jiankou to Mutianyu and from Gubeikou to Jianshanling or Simatai. I’ve visited both Jiankou and Mutianyu but never hiked from one section to the other so this has a hike I’d been planning to do for some time.

A little about Jiankou and Mutianyu

Jiankou is like the wild west of the Great Wall of China and one of the most inaccessible, dangerous sections and spectacular of the wall.  No tour groups go there because it is too dangerous and many people are injured there. The Jiankou wall is shaped like an L going from north to south then bending east where it eventually connects with the Mutianyu section.

Click here for a map if Jiankou Great Wall of China

 Jiankou from Nine Eye Tower to around Beijing Knot is fairly safe. The wall is not very high and there are no steep drops. The only problem hiking there is VERY thick undergrowth on the wall itself and that hike will take all day and not be very rewardig. From Beijing Knot to Jiankou Tower is extremely dangerous with at least three places where the wall has been destroyed and there are steep vertical surfaces. Great views but you really need to think clearly on the danger involved. From the point between Jiankou tower and Sharp North Tower (SNT) all the way to Mutianyu is safe and not hard to hike.

Click here for a map of Mutianyu Great Wall of China

Mutianyu section of the Great Wall has been fully restored and is very commercialized with facilities such as shops and restaurants at the base of the wall and chairlift, gondola and cart ride on the wall. Mutianyu is easy to visit with many tours going there, it is accessible by public transport and the wall itself is safe and easy to hike.

Jiankou Tower and the valley in the backgroud

Last year I visited Jiankou for the first time and hiked from Nine Eye Tower to a small tower in between Heavenly Ladder and Jiankou Tower. The hike was an amazing experience and in hindsight, very reckless. I wanted to go all the way to Mutianyu but the heavy undergrowth in the first part of Jiankou and damaged and dangerous second part took the whole day to hike so I ran out of time. (click here for more information on hiking the Jiankou Great Wall of China)

I also visited Mutianyu last year for the first time and had a great time.  If you take the early bus or go with a tour group, you will have plenty of time to go from one end of Mutianyu to the other. (click here for more information on hiking the Mutianyu Great wall of China)

JIankou Tower and the mounains to the south west

The plan this trip was to join up with some friends and start the hike at Sharp North Tower at Jiankou and hike east to Mutianyu. That way we could avoid the dangerous western parts of Jiankou, enjoy the beautiful views from the Sharp North Tower and an easy hike to Mutianyu.

My friend Jeff from Malaysia had never seen the Great Wall of China so hiking from Jiankou to Mutianyu would be an excellent introduction. My other friend Jon from Inner Mongolia had not seen an unrestored wild secton of the Great Wall like Jiankou so the hike would also be an eye opener for him.

The beginnig of the trail to SNT from Xi Zha Zi village

With the commercialized and restored sections of the wall, reaching the wall from the car park or road takes a quick 10 minute or so walk. Jiankou is different.  The hike from the road at Xi Zha Zi to SNT took almost two hours of hard fast hiking over very rugged terrain where the trail was often not visible.

We made the mistake of aiming for SNT and taking the trails that led in that direction. This added at least half an hour to the hike to the wall and took us over the rougher trails. The best way to reach SNT is to aim for a small tower that is the third tower to the east of SNT.

The SNT and the surrounding views are amazing and well worth the hard hike to get there. SNT has a reputation for being one of the best places on the Great Wall of China for taking photos and when you reach there, you can see why. To the west you can see the remains of Jiankou tower straddling the saddle of a mountain with wall stretching further to the west, you have t he valley and village laid out before you to the north and the wall continuing east to Mutianyu.

When we reached SNT we found that a local entrepreneur from the Xi Zha Zi village was charging tourists 5rmb to use his home made ladders to climb up onto the wall. After slogging for two hours to reach the wall, I was not going to take the easy way at the last minute so huffed and puffed and pulled myself onto the wall next to the ladders. Jeff and Jon followed suit. We hung out on the roof of the SNT enjoying the views and having lunch for half an hour or so. Jon had a chat with the villager who was friendly and had a lot to say about the wall.

Jeff, Jon and I at SNT after a lunch with 6 star views

Once you reach SNT, the rest of the hike is literally down hill with a short upward detour at the Ox Horn.  Once we passed the Ox Horn which took a bit of effort, we started to see some of the more intrepid tourists visiting Mutianyu who wanted to see a bit more of the wall. There was a group of British guys who wanted to hike all the way to SNT but were running out of time because their bus was waiting for them back at Mutianyu.

The hike from SNT to the path at Mutianyu that leads down to the car park took us just over an hour. You can easily do the hike at a relaxed pace in 90 minutes to two hours.

The Ox Horn at JIankou

By the time we reached the car park and bus stop at Mutianyu we were knackered and footsore. We sat around the bus stop declining offers from minibus drivers who ferry tourist to the nearby town of Hauirou until our lift arrived.

Verdict

There is a tremendous contrast and difference between the Jiankou section of the great wall and Mutianyu. The Jiankou section is wild and natural, dangerous, tranquil, unrestored and real. It makes no compromises and compels you to hike it in its own terms. Mutianyu on the other hand is comfortable, easy, restored and artificial, noisy and commercialized.

Hiking from Jiankou to Mutianyu allows you to experience this contrast and provides an insight to the two different sides of the Great Wall of China that are world’s apart.

Jiankou Tower and the main tower at Mutianyu, world's apart

The best way to reach Jiankou is to catch the 916 bus ant the Dongzhimen bus station in Beijing to Hauirou which is a small city north of Beijing. From Hauirou bus stop make a deal with one of the unofficial taxi drivers and drive out to the Xi Zha Zi village. The drive should cost no more then 120rmb.

From Xi Zha Zi village follow the trails to third tower east of SNT, climb the wall then head west for a well deserved rest on the roof of SNT. Hiking from SNT to the bus stop at Mutianyu should take no more than two hours.

If you reach the bus stop before 4pm, you can catch the 876 bus all the way back to Beijing. After 4pm you can catch the 916 bus to Hauirou than another bus back to Beijing.

Flag is raised and the honor guard heads back to Tiananmen Gate

Tian’anmen Square Flag Raising

When you are travelling in Beijing there is a whole bunch of typical travel stuff you can do like climb the Great Wall, wander through the Forbidden City, eat the delicious Beijing Duck and watch the raising of the Chinese flag at Tiananmen Square. For me, watching the flag raising was one of those things I always meant to do but never got around to doing. Until last Sunday morning!!!

A Little Background on Tiananmen

With out exaggeration, Tiananmen Square is the political and spiritual heart of China and it was in the square that the proclamation of the Peoples Republic of China was made back in 1949. Click here for more information on Tiananmen Square

So the raising of the flag that takes place every morning in Tiananmen Square is a pretty big deal and extremely symbolic. Standing shoulder to shoulder with hordes of patriotic locals watching their flag being raised is definitely a unique and very Chinese experience.

The Night Before

Despite the best of intentions, one of the reasons that I’d never seen the flag raising is it happens at sunrise. The time of day when every sane tourist should be in bed dreaming about the cool places they’ll visit after a good nights sleep. To wake up that early was going to take a team effort so together with a couple of Americans and a Malaysian tourist that I was hanging out with, we swore a solemn pact to watch it together the next day. We were to meet at 5:30am at Tiananmen West subway station to watch the flag raising at 6:00am.

Guards keeping the slavering hordes at bay

Woke up to the screeching of the alarm the next morning at 5:00am and was dressed and staggering out of the hotel 10 minutes later. Called my Malaysian buddy J while walking north to Tiananemen Square. He could not find the Americans and was on the way.

You’d think the streets would be empty that time of day but I was sharing the footpaths with crowds of Chinese tourists in tour groups all wearing their red/orange/yellow hats and on their way to watch the flag raising. There was not just a few groups of them scattered around the streets, they were every where purposefully marching in unison to Tiananmen Square.

Never expected the flag raising to be that popular so time for a change of plan. Called J and told him we’d meet at the square itself near the flag. He was stuck on a subway going the wrong direction so I was on my own.

The Crowds

A large square area around the base of the flag was roped off creating a very large clear perimeter surrounding the flag. By the time I arrived there around 20 minutes early, the crowd was already lined up against the perimeter five people deep. By the time the honor guard arrived with the flag, the crowd must have been at least eight deep. The sight of the honor guard marching from Tiananmen Gate to Tiananmen Square caused a surge in the crowd squashing the first few rows of people.

I’ve seen plenty of crowds at China’s travel spots with the Badaling Great Wall of China being a classic example but nothing like the crowd at this flag raising. This was a cold spring morning so the crowds during the peak travel season summer would be a lot (gulp) larger. Watching the flag raising during summer would be a form of extreme tourism and an exercise in futility if you under 6 feet in height.

This is just the beginning of the crowds

When you first arrive at Tiananmen Square bleary eyed, yawning and desperate for a coffee, you will the around five squads of guards scattered around the inner perimeter of the cleared area, guards posted around the flag pole, four to five pairs of volunteers in their red jackets, a line of guards along the southern edge of the perimeter and a large number of white security vans parked on the road in between Tiananmen Gate and Tiananmen Square.

When the crowd starts to build up and people become pushy, you’ll appreciate the heavy security. Be warned though, this is not a good place for political activists who can’t help themselves.

Like clock work, the honor guard will come marching out of Tiananmen Gate over the center bridge exactly on time with the flag bearer at the head of the column. The honor guard marches to the base of the flag where the flag bearer mounts the flag base and raises the flag with the help of the guards posted at flag.

The whole process from marching out of Tiananmen Gate to the completion of raising the flag takes less than five minutes. Once the flag has been raised, the flag is saluted and the honor guard returns back the way it came to Tiananmen Gate. The crowd then quickly disperses and you are left wandering what to do.

the flag is being raised

Go bad to bed – this is one of my favorites and definitely the way to go in winter when the temperature is below zero.

Visit Jingshan Park – This is the park to the north of the Forbidden City that has the best views of the Forbidden City and the surrounding area. By the time you’ve reached the top and had a chance to relax, the Forbidden City should be open.

Hit the Great Wall of China – Many parts of the Great Wall such as Jiankou and Gubeikou take a while to reach so start early and have more time on the wall.

Explore the Hutongs – The area around the Forbidden City is riddled with hutongs that are delightful to walk through. You’ll have no trouble finding a small out of the way restaurant in the hutongs to enjoy breakfast.

After the flag raising I caught up with J who arrived around 20 minutes late and we went of to meet another friend then head out to the Zheng Bei Lou tower on the Jiankou section of the Great Wall.

Flag Raising Times

The flag raising ceremony is carried out at sunrise so it is going to be different every day. I recommend you use this Beijing rising and setting times calculator.

To avoid the worst of the crowds and get a good position with a decent view, I suggest you aim to be at Tiananmen Square at least 30 minutes before sunrise.

The following table outlines the largest of China’s ethic groups using data from the 2005 census

Han Chinese dominate culturally, politically and economically and can be found in every region of the country. Ethnic minorities are mainly found smaller and more isolated communities in the west and north of China and in same parts of the south.

Depending on where and how you travel in China, you will have the opportunity to meet many of China’s ethnic minorities, taste their delicious cuisine, listen to their music, enjoy their customs and admire their different and often spectacular clothing.

easy to see that most ethnic minorities are in the west and north (click on the map to enlarge it)

History of minorities and travel in China

Since the establishment of the Peoples Republic of China in 1949, the Han dominated Chinese government has been busy identifying and classifying the different minorities and promoting China as a harmonious multiethnic country. A part of this promotion was having minority representatives performing on TV. One problem was that many minorities such as the Zhuang were indistinguishable from Han Chinese. The government solved this problem by airing programs of minorities with music, clothing and other practices that had little or nothing to do with their daily lives.

Later when China opened up in the 80’s and the cashed up Han started to travel, one of their favourite travel past times was to visit the more exotic minorities they had seen on TV. Minority entrepreneurs cashed in on this opportunity and set up acts and performances for Han tourists that mirrored the programs aired on TV that had very little bearing on reality.

Minority Blur

While some minorities are clearly unique and different, t be fair to government, the media and minority entrepreneurs, there is often very little difference between various minorities or between minorities and the Han.  For example most Hui appear identical to Han except they practice Islam, and most Manchus have been absorbed and assimilated by Han Chinese.

A mozaic of China's ethnic minorities

The best way to experience China’s minority cultures is to travel to areas where minorities are dominant, eat in their restaurants, sleep in their guest houses and hostels, get out and walk, bus or bike through their communities and enjoy the beauty and diversity of the lands they live in.

I have listed below some of best provinces and cities to experience China’s ethnic minorities during your travels. Keep in mind that this list is just a guide and there are virtually unlimited places in the west and north of China where you can travel and enjoy China’s minorities.

Yunnan Province
Yunnan is ideal because it has so many top travel spots and it is home to 25 minority groups. To experience any of these 25 minorities, you need to get out of Kunming to cities such as Lijiang, Shangrila and Dali.

Lijiang – Lijiang is the home to the Naxi where they have been a dominating political force and governed Lijiang for over 800 years until the fall of the Qing Dynasty. Lijiang has a number of other minorities but the Naxi are the most dominant and the ones you are most likely to see in the Old Town and Lijiang’s other attractions. When you hike the Leaping Tiger Gorge near Lijiang, the guides are mostly Naxi and the hiking trail goes through a number of Naxi villages.

Shangrila – Shangrila lies at the cross roads of Tibet, Sichuan and Yunnan so it is home to many different minorities. The largest minority group is the Tibetans followed by the Naxi and the Bai. Tibetans have their own language which has many dialects that you can hear as you wander around Shangrila. Most Tibetans practice Tibetan Buddhism which explains the presence of Buddhist monasteries in and around Shangrila where large numbers of Tibetans can be seen amongst the horde of Han tourists. 

Dali – Dali is home to the Bai people who have most of their communities in the Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture. The Bai people have their own dialect, folk lore and form of Buddhism. Dali also has the stunning Erhai lake and Cangshan Mountain which are great travel spots.

Naxi women in Lijiang

Both the Uygur and  Kazak are Muslim which gives their architecture, culture, cuisine and customs a colourful and distinct look and feel that cannot be found elsewhere in China. Their language has Turkish influence and uses Arabic script which you will see in literature, on signs and in shop windows when you travel there.

Urumqi – The capital of Xijiang and famous for being a major city furthest from any ocean. Urumqi is a beautiful city with many striking mosques and a number of tourist attractions such as the Heavenly Lake and the Southern Pastures.

Kashgar – This Uygur dominated city is China’s Muslim capital and one of China’s most inaccessible cities. This gives Kashgar a look and feel different from any other Chinese city and different from the rest of Xinjiang. Kashgar is also an oasis city with a population much less than half a million which is tiny by Chinese standards. Walking around Kashgar you could easily imagine yourself in the middle east. One of the places to see when you travel to Kashgar is the Id Kah Mosque which is China’s largest and the enormous Sunday Bazaar.

Naan bread is delicious with lamb stew

Uygur women in their moderate Islamic dress

Hohhot – The capital city of Inner Mongolia is home to 36 ethnic minorities such as Mongol, Manchu and Hui and is full of ancient temples so a great place to experience China’s minorities. Hohhot also has immense natural beauty with travel spots such as the Gegentala (immense grasslands) and te Xilamuren grasslands.

Hulunbeier – This is a large sprawling city in the north east of Inner Mongolia. Hulunbeier was settled by nomadic tribesmen and is the traditional home of 30 ethnic minorities. The main ethnic minority is the Mongol. Hulunbeier has a number of festivals such as the Summer Grassland and Beer festival where you can enjoy China’s tribal minorities.

A Miao girl traditional festive clothes

To try and protect the ethnic minorities and their cultures, the Chinese government has exempt minorities from the one child policy, given them representation in the National Peoples Congress at prefectural and provincial level and set up ethnic autonomous regions. Despite these measures, China’s ethnic minorities are gradually becoming assimilated and absorbed by the Han and losing their traditional cultures and way of life.

Based on recent statistics, there are only two regions in China where the Han are not the dominant ethnic group are Xinjiang and Tibet. Due to migration, the Han will eventually become the dominant ethnic group even in these two areas. Improved transport infrastructure and travel is great for foreign and domestic tourists and for local ethnic economies but also promotes migration. A striking example is the recent direct rail link from eastern China to Tibet which is an incredible technical and economical accomplishment but promotes Han migration to Tibet and the commercialization and degradation of Tibetan culture.

So when you travel in China and experience China’s ethnic minorities, keep in mind that there is often a lot of ethnic conflict. Be discrete, respectful and try to stay out of politics. In Xinjiang with the Muslim minorities, also be careful not to insult or offend their religious values.

The Bai people and their traditional dances and music

For more information on China’s ethnic minorities, I suggest you use the link below

http://www.china.org.cn/e-groups/shaoshu/

This site is the best source of information in China’s ethnic minorities that I’ve found and contains a lot of fascinating information on each of the 55 minorities. From the main page, click in the minority you are interested and the site will take you to a summary page for the that minority From the summary page, click on the title under the two photos.

A Tibetan family

The beauty of Huangshan

Huangshan or Yellow Mountain

Huangshan has a well earned reputation as the most beautiful and stunning of China’s mountains. The views hiking mountain side and cliff top trails are incredible with the mountain peaks appearing to float on a sea of clouds. Huangshan is also Called Yellow Mountain but most people, even foreign tourists, use the name Huangshan.

Like the Great Wall, Huangshan is one of the classic symbols of China and has been the subject of Chinese art over the centuries. If you like hiking and natural scenery, visiting the Huangshan is a must and you should place it at the top of your must see destinations when you travel in China.

A little about the Yellow Mountain

Located in the southern end of Anhui province, the name Huangshan or Yellow Mountain is a little confusing because Huangshan is actually a mountain range with over 72 peaks that covers four counties.

Huangshan is also a world heritage site with a core area of 152 square kilometres and a surrounding buffer zone of 142 square kilometres.  The main tourist area of Huangshan with the key hiking trails includes the three tallest and most famous peaks which are Lotus Peak (Lian Hua Feng – 1,864 meters), Bright Summit Peak (Guang Ming Ding – 1,840m) and Celestial Peak (Tian Du Feng 1,829 meters).

Many classical Chinese master pieces are based on the beauty fo Huangshan

The Emperor and the Mountain

Huangshan was called Yishi or Yi Mountain until 747 AD when it was changed to Huangshan by Imperial decree. The name Huangshan or Huang Mountain was given as an honour to the legendary Huang Di or Yellow Emperor who is the mythical ancestor of Han Chinese.

Another part of the legend says that Huang Di cultivated his moral character (a popular occupation at the time) and made pills of immortality at Huangshan.  No doubt the same pills of immortality that the Monkey God later stole in the famous Chinese classic “Journey West”.

The Attractions of Huangshan

Sea of Clouds or Huangshan Sea – Huangshan is most famous for the view of the cloud tops seen from the peaks above.  In the right conditions a dense blanket of clouds will form that covers the entire mountain range with just the peaks of the highest mountains visible above the clouds. This sea of clouds effect is called the Huangshan Sea.

The best place to view the Sea of Clouds depends on altitude of the cloud level which will vary. In general Bright Peak which is the second highest on Huangshan is best for viewing the Sea of Clouds. The Sea of Clouds does not happen that often and even if you spend 3-4 days on Huangshan, you may not experience it. Winter is the season the Sea of Clouds is most likely to form.

Looking down on a blanket of coulds with just the mountain tops showing is inspiring

Sunrises – Second only to the Sea of Clouds in beauty and fame are Huangshan’s sunrises. Many Chinese tourists and not a few foreign tourists make a pilgrimage to Huangshan just for the stunning sunrises.

The best places to view the sunrise on Huangshan are Dawn Pavilion (name says it all), Refreshing Platform, Lion Peak, Heavenly Capital Peak and a number of other spots. The best times for viewing sunrises depends on the season with 5:30am to 6:00am in Spring, 4:30am to 5:10am in Summer, 4:50am to 5:20am in Autumn and 5:30am to 6:00am in Winter being optimal. 

Hot Springs – Huangshan has a hot springs area to the south near the Tankou entrance that is very popular with Chinese tourists. The hot springs come out of Purple Peak at an altitude of 850 meters and flow south  to the main hot springs area called Xanadu. Some one from the Huangshan tourist board must have been watching too many soppy foreign films. Xanadu has a lovely bridge at its center, two springs flowing through it and several charming waterfalls.

Hiking Huangshan

The main activity and the main reason most tourists to go Huangshan is for the hiking which is amazing. Hiking Huangshan allows you to experience beautiful mountain scenery, explore one of China’s most biologically diverse reserves, witness stunning views and get an excellent work out.

There are several hiking trails on Huangshan where you cross wooden walkways/platforms with scary vertical drops that make you feel like you are literally walking in the sky.

MUCH safer than it looks - trust me

There are two main types of hiking on Huangshan. The first type is hiking from the base of the mountains to the top and the second type is hiking on the top of the mountains.

Hiking to the Top – Most tourists take one of the three cable cars (also called telphers) to the top of Huangshan which are relatively cheap and save a lot of time. Not a bad idea if you only have a day to visit Huangshan but I definitely recommend you hike up and back down if you have enough time. This will allow you to experience one of the best parts of Huangshan and you’ll avoid queuing up with Chinese tourists and their megaphone toting guides.

The two main trails to the top of Huangshan are the Western Steps and the Eastern steps. Western Steps is 15 kilometers long with a steep and winding path that has the best views. Eastern Steps is only 7.5 kilometers long and much easier but the views are no where near as good. Depending on which trail you choose, the hike can take anywhere from 4 to 9 hours.

Hiking to the top of Huangshan may be difficult but it the trails are well established and safe with public toilets (not pretty but bearable) and stalls for food and drink along the way.

Hiking on the Top Huangshan – The main hiking routes on the top Huangshan are between the northern and southern cable car terminals.  The eastern and northern hiking trails in this area are very enjoyable and, with a few detours, allow you to see the main peaks and attractions. The down side of these trails is that they are too easy and tend to be crowded with tour groups.

The best absolutely must hike trail on Huangshan is the West Sea or West Sea Grand Canyon trail. Despite having the most awesome views and no crowds, you will not find this trail on many maps or hear tour guides talk about it. It is a very physically demanding trail that you should only attempt if you are physically fit, prepared and carrying the bare minimum.

Depending on how far you go along the West Sea trail, it is over 15 kilometers long, can take over nine hours to hike and  takes you up and down countless steps, through tunnels, up mountain trails, over bridges  and provides grandstand views of the Nine Dragons Peak.

The best time to hike Huangshan is around August when all the trails are open, clear and easy to hike. Many of the trails are closed during the off season for maintenance and because snow in winter makes them inaccessible or too dangerous.

the trail ends here

Tips for Visiting and Hiking Huangshan

Minimal packing – If you are going to be on Huangshan for just the day or even over night, back the minimum. This means day packs only with no suitcases or large backpacks and only carry essential toiletries and a change of under wear if you stay over night.

Only take light weight compact food such as energy bars and at least two to three liters of water for day trips. If you are going to be hiking mountainous terrain all day, you will be grateful for a light pack. You can leave heavier luggage at your hotel in Huangshan City or store your luggage at the Tangkou and Taiping management centers at the Huangshan’s northern and southern entrances.

In summer sunburn is a serious problem so make sure you have sunglasses and sunscreen. A light jacket is also a good idea because the weather can change and temperatures drop quickly.

Photography - The opportunities for photography on Huangshan are amazing so make sure you have plenty of spare memory and at least one fully charged spare battery. The facilities on Huangshan are minimal at best so don’t expect to charge batteries upload data or buy more memory.

Staying on Huangshan – Accommodation on Huangshan is very spartan because everything on the mountains is taken up by porters and very expensive (especially during peak season). I suggest you only stay on Huangshan if you if you plan on watching the sunrises or sunsets. Check the weather before making any plans and if it is bad, don’t stay over night.

When to visit – The best time to visit Huangshan depends on what you want to do and your tolerance for crowds. Early April and late November are the best for many of the views. August is the best time for hiking which is right in the middle of the peak season from July to October when everything is much more expensive. Reservations for hotels on Huangshan are also essential during this time.

Winter is the best time for viewing the Sea of Clouds and the snow covered scenery with trees covered in ice is beautiful. The problem with visiting Huangshan in winter is that many of the trails and mountain peaks are closed down for maintenance and because the snow can make the trails very dangerous.

How long to visit – If possible give yourself 3 days on Huangshan and a day to explore Huangshan City and the nearby Hong Chun Village.  Hiking up and down the mountain will take most of a day as will hiking the West Sea trail. At least another day to leisurely enjoy the more sedate trails and numerous attractions would be ideal.

stop for a break at the top

Huangshan City

Huangshan City is a small city (by Chinese standards) at the base of the mountain range that serves as a gate way to the actual Huangshan Mountain. Huangshan City is not only a transport hub and good for cheap off mountain accommodation, it is also a tourist attraction in its own right.

Tunxi Ancient Village – In the center of the southern part of Huangshan City is an ancient village with streets over a thousand years old. Often used as a film set in period movies and TV series.

Hong Chun – Hong Chun is an ancient and beautiful village located around one and a half hours out of Huangshan City. Hong Chun was used as the set of the famous Chinese Kung Fu movie “Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon” and played no minor part in the movies success.

Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon was filmed here - easy to see why

Getting There

The best way of getting to Huangshan is in two stages. The first stage is from Shanghai or Hangzhou to Huangshan City. The second stage is from Huangshan City to Huangshan Mountain.

Shanghai to Huangshan City 500km – There are direct flights between Shanghai and Huangshan City but unless you have a serious need to burn some cash, don’t fly. Two trains run daily to Huangshan from Shanghai and one of them is an over night train that would be ideal.

Buses run from Shanghai South bus station to Huangshan City and take 6 to 7 hours. Not as comfortable as the trains but make for an enjoyable trip.

Hangzhou to Huangshan City 300km – If you are lucky enough to be in beautiful Hangzhou, Huangshan City is only 4 hours away by bus. There are no trains from Hangzhou to Huangshan City.

Huangshan City to Huangshan Mountain 50km – You can catch buses from most major areas in the city to Huangshan Mountain and the buses will drop you off at the base of the cable car / telpher. From there you hike or join the tour groups and take a ride.

You can also take a taxi to Huangshan Mountain and finding people to share the taxi with you and split the costs is easy. Both bus and taxi should take no more than an hour to reach Huangshan.
 

Huangshan Mountain LInks

Maps of Huangshan Mountain and Huangshan City

Wikipedia for Huangshan Mountain

Rule No 10 - always fight to pay for the bill

Rules such as double checking your China visa, having travel insurance and having a practical budget you can stick to are all pretty obvious.  There are other less formal and obvious but no less important rules that can make a big difference to your travel in China.

These rules are the unwritten rules of travel in China passed on from one traveller to the next in hostel lounges, disreputable bars, hiking trails and the far ends of the Great Wall. I have listed below the 10 most important of these unwritten to help make your time in China more enjoyable. If you have travelled in China before and have picked up your own unwritten rules, feel free to add them at the end of this post.

1 – Don’t brag and carry on about how good your country is

One of the most annoying things a foreign tourist can do in China is brag about how everything is so much better in their own country.  Sure most of us come from beautiful countries which great infrastructure, legal systems and football grounds but so what?!? You travel to China experience, enjoy and celebrate the incredible diversity, uniqueness and beauty that China has.

2 – More expensive does not mean better

I’m a bit of a budget traveller so I’m probably prejudiced but I can say with all honesty that some of the best meals, rooms and experiences you can get will be in small dingy restaurants, street vendors, out of the way hostels and chaotic local markets.

Five star restaurants and hotels have superb service and luxurious environments but little or no character. You hardly know you are in China when you eat and sleep in them. Truly the best way to experience travel in China is to eat where the locals eat, focus on the content of tours/activities not their price, and stay at small hostels/hotels that tell you about China. A classic example being the small hutong hotels you can find in Beijing.

3 – Pack thongs / flip flops

No matter where you plan to travel in China or for how long, you will find the humble flip flops indispensable. Great for beaches, showers, middle of the night toilet runs and squashing cockroaches. They also have the benefit of being cheap, take up very little room in your backpack and are virtually indestructible.  They can also make great trade goods and conversation starters.

4 – Take at least one decent set of clothes

For most of your time in China you’ll be wearing worn out, non descript jeans, shorts, shirts and so forth which are great for climbing the Great Wall, hiking Leaping Tiger Gorge or riding a smelly camel on the Silk Road.. They are not so hot for dinners with Chinese friends/hosts, a night on the town in Shanghai, visiting the Mausoleum of Mao Zedong or many other occasions where you need to look half reasonable.

So stuff at least one set of semi decent and clean clothes in your pack for these special occasions where your normal ragged and smelly shorts, singlets and sandals will not do.

5 – Pack the minimum and buy what you need in China

You can by anything and everything in China with the exception of safe infant formula.  So don’t pack stacks of socks, t-shirts, under wear, tooth paste and other essentials that you are worried you can’t find in China. Trust me, you can find everything you need and more. Many people come to China with empty backpacks and suit cases that they take home loaded just because you can buy everything here.

If you don’t believe me, take a quick tour around your home and see where most of your possessions are made.

6 – Keep your cool in the face of perceived rudeness

Often in China you will find locals will bump into you with out saying sorry, push into queues ahead of you (or not even queue at all), give some what brusque service and irritate and annoy you in so many other ways. There may be a strong temptation to jump up and down, throw a righteous tantrum and chastise the offending party.

No matter how real or imagined the offense is, keep you cool, force out a smile and move on. You are in China to enjoy yourself and cultural differences that cause real or imagined slights are part and parcel of travel and getting angry, as justified as you may be, will not help.

7 – ALWAYS carry tissues with you

As you travel around China, you will find that most Chinese public toilets do not have toilet paper. If you don’t carry tissues, you will end up in some very embarrassing situations. Carrying tissues is also a great way to make yourself popular with your fellow tourists who find themselves less prepared than you are.

8 – Cross the roads VERY carefully

In most western countries, cars will stop and make way for pedestrians. In China pedestrians make way for cars even at pedestrian crossings with green lights. Many Chinese drivers are certifiably insane once they are behind the wheel and public bus drivers are the worst of them SO no matter what, be very VERY careful when crossing roads.

One useful technique that many locals use is to cross roads in groups because stragglers maybe picked off but there is security in numbers.

9 – “No Thank you” does not mean no

When Chinese communicate, they often place more emphasis on implied meanings than direct meanings. This is especially the case with refusals where no thank you does not mean no. It is customary for Chinese people to refuse your offer two to three times before accepting to be polite and to maintain face. If you are offering a Chinese friend, colleague or companion something they need or want such as a drink, help or payment and they say no, keep offering because they don’t mean no and they will eventually accept. Be careful though because just to be confusing they will sometimes mean no.

10 – Always fight for the bill when some one else is paying

Often in restaurants and bars you will see people happily enjoying themselves together then as they prepare to leave, start pushing each other, struggling and yelling. Don’t worry, they are just fighting over who gets to pay the bill. It is considered good manners to be verbal and aggressively to fight for the bill even when you have no intention of paying for it. The fight should last for a few minutes then the host will be allowed to win and pay the bill.

If a Chinese companion is taking you out, always fight for the bill at the end of the night to be polite, give them face and show respect. Don’t’ get too carried away through and actually win or your host will be mortified and incredibly embarrassed.

Experience travel on the Silk Road

What is the Silk Road?

The Silk Road was also a network of overland trade routes extending over 6500 kilometers that connected China to the Mediterranean over 2000 years ago. The route started in the ancient Chinese capital of Xian, crossed mountain ranges, deserts, steppes and oasis’s and finished in Levant, an ancient region now covered by Lebanon, Syria and Israel.

It was also instrumental in the development of ancient civilizations such as Persia, Arabia, Rome and China and was a critical influence in the development of the modern world.  It was also the source of legends and the inspiration of ancient explorers and traders such as Marco Polo and Friar John of Pian de Carpine.

From Europe to Aisa

Not all of the exchanges on the Silk road were positive and the Silk Road was responsible for the spread of the bubonic or black plague that wiped out up to 60% of Europe’s population.

Trade on the Silk Road was not continuous and goods and ideas exchanged hands many times through a series of oasis town market places and bazaars in many different countries before reaching their final destination.

History of the Silk Road

The Silk Road began around 329 BCE when Alexander the Great conquered all of the known world, built the City of Alexandria Eschate and promoted trade to the east.

The next major development in the Silk Road was when the Han Dynasty wiped out the inhabitants of the Taklaman Desert, started settlements and established trade and diplomatic relations with countries to the west

After the Roman empire conquered Egypt in 30BCE, trade between China and Europe along the silk road boomed. Large numbers of ships sailed from Egypt to India every year to exchange goods on the lower Silk Road.  Growth in the trade of silk on the Silk Road was driven by strong Roman demand supplied by the Parthians (a silk road intermediary). Roman demand for Chinese silk was so strong that the balance of trade was in the red and Rome’s coffers were running dry. The Roman senate responded by sulking and prohibiting the wearing of silk.

Xian's Bell Tower

Silk Road Revival – Modern trade on the Silk Road started again when China and Kazakhstan connected their railway systems in 1990 you can now travel from Urumqi in Xinjiang to Almaty and Astana in Kazakhstan. The establishment of a freight rail link in 2011 between Chingqing and Duisberg in German was a much needed boost in Silk Road trade. Freight between German and China by train on the Silk road takes 13 days compared to shipping that takes 36 days.

Travelling the Silk Road

Silk Road travel begins in Xian (called Chang’an in ancient times), passes through Dunhuang and Urumqi and ends at Kashgar.  Depending on how much time you have, your budget and your method of travel, your trip can vary from see every major spot on the Silk Road to seeing just the key spots such as Xian, Urumqi, Kashgar and Jiayuguan Pass.

Key spots on the Silk Road in China

Xian – Is over 3’100 years old and was one of the four great Ancient Capitals of China. Xian, formerly known as Changan was the capital of China during great dynasties such as the Tang Dynasty. When you travel to Xian, you can see the famous Terracotta Army, the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, the Bell Tower and ride a bike in the city wall. Xian is

Jiayuguan Pass Fortress and Great Wall

Lanzhou – Is the capital of Gansu Province, is on the Yellow River and a major Silk Road travel hub. Near Lanzhou are classic attractions such as the Thousand Buddha Caves that are over 2’000 years old and the Labrang Monastry.

Jiayuguan Pass – Jiayuguan is a fortress on the Western end of the Great Wall of China guarding the strategic Shanhai Pass which is a critical Silk Road pass. The fortress is enormous, very well preserved and magnificent. The fortress is easily one of the most impressive spots on the Silk Road.

Dunhuang – Dunhuang’s claim to fame is it’s a trading hub and oasis on the Silk Road and its Magao Caves. The Magao caves are a series of Buddhist temples built on caves. Great to see but one of the less important spots on the Silk Road.

Flaming Mountain at Turpan

Urumqi – Located in the foot of the Tianshan Mountains in far north west China, Urumqi is the capital of Xinjiang and famous for being a major city furthest from any ocean. The two main ethnic groups in Urumqi are the Uyghur who are native to the area and Han who are migrants. There is often tension and political turmoil between these two groups. Islam is the dominant religion in Urumqi and the Islamic influence is visible in the architecture, food, dress and behaviour of the Uyghur.

A Urumqi Mosque

Urumqi is regarded as a beautiful city and it also has famous tourist attractions such as the gorgeous Heavenly Lake on a mountain peak east of the city (not to be confused with Heavenly Lake in Jilin Province) and Southern Pastures, a famous resort cum pastures to the south. Urumqi is not one of the key spots on the Silk Road but it does provide a fascinating insight into the ethnic make up of China.

Kashgar – Kashgar is the Muslim center of China and one of China’s most inaccessible cities. This gives Kashgar a look and feel different from any other Chinese city and different from the rest of Xinjiang. Kashgar is also an oasis city with a population much less than half a million which is tiny by Chinese

A Kashgar market

Apart from colourful and fascinating culture and environment, Kashgir also has a number of attractive sights such as the Id Kah Mosque which is the largest Mosque in China and the Sunday Bazaar which is an enormous market typical of Silk Road bazaars.

Kashgar embodies the spirit, culture and environment of the original silk road and is a must see for anyone travelling on the Silk Road.

Taklamakan Desert – This desert separates the Silk Road, is China’s largest desert and the world’s second largest shifting sand desert. The continuous sand dunes in the desert are around a 100 meters high and can go to over 300 meters in height. The desert is ringed by bustling oasis towns supplied by rainfall from the nearby mountains that were key stops for the Silk Road caravans. Two cross desert highways have been built that link the oasis towns of Aksu to Hetian and Korla to Minfeng. Silk Road

Recommended Silk Road Route

Ideally you’d want to start in Xian, finish in Kashgar and see every spot on the Silk Road. Most of us can’t do this so I have listed recommendations below for getting the most out of your Silk Road trip.

Must see sites

Xian – Xian alone is an incredible city to visit and the starting point of the word’s most famous road. You cannot do a Silk Road trip with out seeing Xian.

Kashgar – This city embodies the history, spirit, terrain and cross cultural nature of the Silk Road.

Jiayuguan Pass – This is most western end of the Great Wall and an incredible fortress.

Taklamakan Desert – You can’t really know what travel on the Silk Road was like until you see and cross this desert.

The Taklamakan Desert

Urumqi – This city provides an incredible contrast to the rest of China and will give you a unique look and at ethnic heart of western China.

Turpan – A multitude of ethnic groups, great food and desert location make Turpan a unique and compelling site.

This is my recommended route

Xian – Jiayuguan Pass – Urumqi – Turpan – Kashgar – Hetian (desert crossing) – Aksu – Dunhuang

From Dunhuang you can either fly to the international airport you’ll use to leave China or fly to another city such as Hanzhou where you can continue your travels in China.

How to Travel the Silk Road

You have three main choices for seeing the Silk Road 1 – A tour from Beijing, Shanghai or Xian 2 – Independent travel and local tours 3 – Complete independent travel.

Tours – I’m not a big fan of tours and normally avoid them like the plague BUT they are the easiest and most efficient way to see the Silk Road. If you do take a Silk Road tour, start and finish in Xian. Tours from Beijing and/or Shanghai will cost a lot more and waste 2-3 in the starting city before reaching any of the Silk Road sites. If possible, also choose a tour that has more emphasis on overland travel and less on plane travel.

Independent travel  and local tours – Making your way independently to Xian, Urumqi, Kashgar and the other major Silk Road sites by train or plane is easy and there will be many travel agents offering tours ranging from one day to over five days. This is the way I’d travel the Silk Road because you have the freedom of travelling independently and choose where you stay and for how long without the hassle and danger doing every thing yourself.

Complete independent Travel – Travelling independently and making all your own arrangements is difficult because you require local knowledge, a LOT of time and patience, a way to deal with multiple language barriers and a willingness to rough it.  Many of the ethnic minorities have their own spoken and written language so even if you speak fluent Mandarin, communications can still be very difficult.

On the bright side most travel agencies and hotels will hire cars and minivans with drivers at reasonable rates and buses between the larger cities are easy to catch. The three day bus trip from Urumqi to Kashgar provides spectacular views and a must do for independent travellers.

camel road trip

Western China has seen a lot of development and improvements in transport infrastructure so travelling by road is now practical, easy and reasonably safe. I’ve listed below the times and distances of key road routes.

Train Travel in the Silk Road

Travel by train in the Silk Road is by far the best way. It is cheap, convenient, very comfortable with hard or soft sleepers, you get to see and mingle with the locals and see the landscape as you roll through the country. Trains go directly from all major cities to Xian and there are direct trains to Urumqi from Xian, Lanzhou, Beijing and many other cities. Every other city on the silk road from Kashgar to Dunhuang is connected by train.

If you are making a long train trip from east to west such as Beijing to Urumqi, make sure you take enough food and drink to last the trip because food and drink available on the train is often sold out after the first day, poor quality or very limited. Also make sure you bring plenty of entertainment, toilet paper and other toiletries.

Travel by train on the Silk Road

Best Time to Go – Around May and October are the best months to go because summers are scorchers and winters are freezing.

Things to Bring – Even around May and October temperatures can vary a lot so bring clothes for summer and for a mild winter. Much of the Silk Road is at a high elevation where UV light is a problem so bring sunglasses, a hat and sunscreen.

Islam – Xinjiang is a Muslim dominated area so you will need to be respectful of the locals religious beliefs, don’t expect to eat pork and be suitably dressed if you visit any of the mosques. Women’s dress should be modest with legs and shoulders covered. Woman are not permitted in some mosques so be careful.

No McDonalds – Western food will be available in the larger cities such asUrumqi Kashgar but most places, especially in the rural areas will only have local food. You need to adapt to local cuisine which is includes a lot of fruit, beef, mutton, noodles and bread.

Avoid politics – Many Xinjiang people from ethnic minorities are not too fond of the central government so politics is a very sensitive subject. Best to play it safe and avoid politics all together.

Tigers resting between bus attacks

I have included below a recent report on a group of lucky tourists in Shandong and their action packed and complimentary tiger attack.

"A group of tourists visiting a wildlife park in eastern China had a narrow escape after bengal tigers attacked their bus, puncturing its tyres and destroying the windscreen, state media said.

A worker in charge of the enclosure at Jinan Wildlife World in Shandong province was at lunch when the incident happened last Saturday, and it took officials 10 minutes to open a gate so the tourists could escape, reports said.

None of the 27 tourists on the bus was injured, but the driver's hand was hurt when the tigers jumped on the vehicle and broke the windscreen, the official Xinhua news agency said.

An appetiser before the main course arrives

Terrified visitors hid under their seats as a group of up to eight tigers bit the vehicle's tyres, destroyed its windshield wipers and broke windows, the Global Times reported.

Attempts to call police failed because there was no mobile phone reception, it added.

"We are deeply sorry for the accident," Wu Yanfei, deputy manager of Jinan Wildlife World, was quoted by Xinhua as saying.

The park has launched an investigation into the attack and compensated the tourists, Xinhua said.

China says it has nearly 6,000 endangered tigers in captivity, but just 50 to 60 living in the wild in its north-east.

A number of attacks on humans by captive tigers have been reported in recent years.

Last year, a tour bus driver was mauled to death by a siberian tiger at a breeding centre in the north-eastern province of Heilongjiang after he got out of his vehicle to check on a mechanical problem.

In 2010, a zoo keeper was killed by a bengal tiger at Shanghai Zoo after apparently forgetting to lock the animal's cage."

Source

Crazy & Funny China Photo Gallery One (click to view)

Optimism at work

Crazy and Funny China Photo Gallery Two (click to view)

Dangerous mobile phone use

Crazy and Funny China Photo Gallery Three (click to view)

No translation needed

Crazy China Photo Gallery Four (click to view)

Panda jail break

As unreal as some of these photos may seem, rest assured that they are real and if you are lucky or unlucky enough, these are the kind of sites you can expect to see when you are here.

China is Crazy and you see things like this daily

You stop saying sorry or excuse me when you accidentally bump people

You allow your children to openly urinate on the street

You always take the front seat when you catch a taxi

You never use the seat belt when you catch a taxi

You never ever leave home with out toilet paper/tissues

You never clean up your dog’s poo when walking it in the street

You stop cleaning your tray at McDonald’s or KFC

You stop smiling or being friendly to service staff

You no longer feel that yelling into a mobile phone at restaurants is rude or unusual

You start littering and dumping your trash on the street instead of the bin

You automatically haggle when ever you buy something

You now believe that queuing and waiting in line is for losers

You give in to peer pressure and start smoking every where. Lifts, restaurants, taxis…..

You have adopted the habit of loudly hawking and spitting

You never used to use your car horn, now you use it constantly at the slightest provocation

You are no longer worried about disturbing people and make as much noise as you want when ever you want where ever you are

You have given up on direct communication and are always looking for the implied meaning

You can no longer understand why copying and bootlegging is illegal outside China

Purpose & Function

Throughout China’s history from the unification of China in 221 BE by the King of Qin to the fall of the last emperor Yuan Shikai in 1916, China’s emperors were referred to as the son’s of heaven. The emperor was heaven’s representative on earth and administered earth on behalf of the gods. Part of the emperors duties as the son of heaven was showing respect to the gods by making sacrifices to heaven.

The Temple of Heaven was built so the emperor could make sacrifices to heaven and pray for the god’s benevolence. Two key ceremonies were held at the Temple of Heaven on the Winter solstice and in Spring when the emperor, the court and Beijing’s royal A list would dress in their Sunday finest, leave the Forbidden City and travel to the Temple of Heaven where they would set up camp for the ceremonies duration.

The outer temple park

History

The temple was built from 1406 to 1420 by Emperor Yong Le of the Ming Dynasty who died four years after construction was complete. When the temple was built it was called the Temple of Heaven and Earth. Later in the 16^th century a Ming Emperor Jia Jiang built the Temple of Earth in the north of Beijing so the Temple of Heaven and Earth had to be renamed as the Temple of Heaven.

The Temple of Heaven was renovated and extended in the 16^th century and renovated again in the 18^th century by the Emperor Qianlong.

In 1900 a group of foreign nations that included USA and the UK took over the Temple of Heaven and used it as a headquarters for a year during the ill fated Boxer Rebellion. Later in 1918 the Temple was turned into a park and opened to the public for the first time in history. In recognition of the temple’s unique architecture and key role in China’s history, UNESCO listed it as a world heritage site in 1998.

The gorgeous architecture and paint work on the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest

As the son of heaven, the emperor was not able to make his home bigger than the symbolic home for heaven so the Temple of heaven covers 2.73 square kilometres which is over three times larger than the Forbidden City. The Temple of Heaven itself is divided into two parts, the inner temple and the outer temple. The outer temple is mainly heavily wooded parkland that is now used by Beijing locals for recreation and sport. If you visit the temple early in the morning, you will see many people out and about enjoying themselves in the outer temple parkland.

The inner temple is built on a straight line running from north to south and holds the temple’s main buildings which are the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest, the Imperial Vault of Heaven and the Circular Mound Alter.

A map of the Temple of Heaven

You can see from the map that the part of the temple holding the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest is enclosed by a wall. The northern part of the wall that holds the hall is circular which symbolizes heaven and the southern part of the wall is square which symbolizes earth that ancient Chinese believed to be square. Very similar to the European belief at the time that the world was flat!

The hall is 38.2 meters high, has a diameter of 24.2 meters and built on a raised 3 tier marble terrace with eight stairways. The terrace elevates the temple to show that heaven is high and earth is low. The hall and was used during the Spring ceremony to pray for bumper harvest.

The hall was first built in 1420 as a rectangular hall called “Great Hall of Sacrificial Rituals”. It was rebuilt in 1545 and named “Great Hall of Offering Sacrifices”.  Keeping the same basic design, it was rebuilt again in 1751 and named the “Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest.

The Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest

The Imperial Hall of Heaven is just north of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest. This hall is often called the Heavenly warehouse because it stored the stone tablet of “the God of Heaven” and the tablets of the Emperor’s ancestors. The tablets were transferred to the Hall of Prayer for rituals and ceremonies then returned again at the end.

On the day of ceremonies the emperor would come here to burn incense and pay respect to his ancestors before officials from the ministry of rituals transferred the tablets to the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest.

The Imperial Hall of Heaven and gate

The Dianbi Bridge is a 360 meter long 4 meters high raised walk way connecting the Hall of Prayer and the Circular Mound alter. The bridge is also called the Sacred Way because the emperor used the bridge during the ceremonies.

The Dianbi Bridge

The firewood stove was used for burning offerings to heaven. Before heaven worshipping ceremonies began, a washed and shaved calf was placed in the firewood stove and burnt to welcome the god of heaven. After ceremonies were complete, all offerings such as placards and silk scrolls were burnt in the stove while the emperor stood nearby keeping warm and watching. This was a ritual called “Observation of the burning”.

Next to the Fire wood stove is a pit called the Pit of Blood and Hair because the hair and blood of sacrificial victims was buried there. Given China’s history of human sacrifices and references to the Pit of Blood and Hair, there is a strong possibility that the Temple of Heaven used human sacrifices before 1464.

The 8 stoves were used to make offerings to the first 8 generations of the Qing Emperors.

The Firewood Stove and Pit of Blood and Hair

8 burning stoves

The Imperial Vault of Heaven was first built in 1538 and called the “Hall of Appeasing Gods. It was later named Vault of Heaven in 1538 and rebuilt to its current state in 1752.

With a height of 19.5 meters and a diameter of 15.6 meters, the Imperial Vault of Heaven is the least imposing of the three main structures in the Temple of Heaven.

The vault is surrounded a 3.72 meter high 90 centimeter thick and 65 meter long circular wall called the Echo Wall that is famous for its acoustic properties that can transmit sound over long distances.

The Imperial Vault of Heaven

The Circular Mound Alter was built in 1530 and used to for holding the ceremony to worship Heaven at the winter solstice. The Circular Mound Alter is also called the Heaven Worshipping Terrace and was later redesigned and enlarged in 1749.

Like the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest, the Circular Mound Alter is built on a three tier marble terrace. The bottom terrace represents hell, the middle terrace represents the mortal world and the top terrace represents heaven. The top terrace has an alter stone called the Heaven's Heart Stone that is surrounded by 9 rings of stone slabs.

The Circular Mound Alter

The subway is the easiest way to get to the Temple of Heaven. Catch the subway on line 5 then get of at Tian Tan Dong Men station and use the A exit.  You’ll exit the station near the east gate of the Temple of Heaven.

There are also many buses that run to the Temple of Heaven and the best buses are buses 6, 34, 35, 36, 106, 110, 687, 707 or 743 that stop at the temple’s north gate.

If you are coming from the centre of the city near Tiananmen Square, walking is by far the best way to get to the temple which is less than four kilomters from the Forbidden City.

How the emperor got there- The emperor travelled from the Forbidden City to the Temple of Heaven and back on a 12 meter long, 2.8 meter wide and 3.6 meter high sedan that was carried by 36 bearers. There were over 10 groups of bearers and thousands of officials, eunuchs and royal guards. Traffic was not a problem because commoners where not allowed to see the emperor and his entourage.

Tips for visitors to the Temple of Heaven

Do the Temple of Heaven and the Forbidden City on the same day – The Temple of Heaven and Forbidden City are connected and complement each other so if possible, see both on the same day.  See the temple in the morning which should take no more than 2 hours, walk from the temple to the Forbidden City which should take around 40 minutes then enjoy the rest of the day in the Forbidden City. If the emperor and his entourage could do it, so can you.

Walk through the hutongs – If you walk from the Temple of Heaven to the Forbidden City, walk through the hutongs which are a fascinating and hidden part of Beijing. You can reach the hutongs from the northern entrance of the temple and follow them north for at least one kilometer.

One of the hutongs to the north of the Temple of Heaven

Tickets and hours

Entry to the outer temple and parklands cost 10rmb and entry into the inner temple is 20rmb.

The outer temple is open from 6am to 8pm and the inner temple opens at 8am and closes at 5pm.

Temple of Heaven LInks

More Temple of Heaven Photos – My entire Temple of Heaven Photo Collection

Wikipedia on The Temple of Heaven – Dry, dull and very few pictures but may have a few facts I missed

The Forbidden City – A guide to the Forbidden City to help you with your visit when you leave the Temple of Heaven